
14 July 2025
Jenya Kazbekovaโs disordered eating story
Jenya Kazbekova, an Olympian who placed 2nd in Lead and 4th in Boulder at last yearโs European Championships, has shared an open letter discussing her struggles with disordered eating throughout her competition career. This year, the Ukrainian climber is stepping away from the circuit as she prepares to welcome a baby in just a few weeks.
โIโve been meaning to write this post for a long time. It means a lot to me to finally talk about it, though somehow it still took a while to find the right words. I care deeply about our climbing community, and seeing younger climbers struggle makes me want to share my story in the hope that it will resonate with someone or help them feel safe to reach out for support. The worst part of any struggle is feeling completely isolated and alone.
In recent years, thereโs been more conversation in the climbing community about malnutrition, disordered eating and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). While I was lucky never to develop a full-blown eating disorder, Iโve been very familiar with disordered eating. When I was younger, I didnโt know any better. I thought I was being smart, analysing elite climbers of the 2000s and 2010s and assuming losing weight was the way to success. Being stubborn and persistent, I fell into constant dieting, malnutrition, and a skewed body image.
In 2016 in Paris, I vividly remember standing on a scale and feeling crushed. Iโd gained weight. Despite looking really thin in the photo, I still believed I needed to lose more. The moment I saw that number, some part of me gave up before the competition had even begun. A lot of fears made it hard to focus on what really mattered, as all the โwhat ifsโ started playing in my head: fear of failing, fear of judgement, fear of disappointment, fear of not being good enough. What I didnโt understand then was that constant malnutrition wasnโt just messing with my head. It was destroying my bodyโs ability to heal. I stayed injured far more often, took much longer to recover from hard sessions, and was basically living in survival mode. It didnโt even allow me to train to my full potential. In the end, all those food restrictions didnโt make me a better athlete; they actually harmed my physical and mental health.
Having fears is a very human thing, but what you do with them is the crucial part of the process. Years later, finding the courage to face my fears and work through them is what helped me the most. It took me years to find my balance, to learn from my mistakes, and to reach a place where I could truly be proud of what my body can do. It wasnโt a straight path. There were setbacks, moments I felt lost, and times I questioned if I was doing the right thing by refusing to play the โwho is lighterโ game. It took years of rewiring my brain, hard work in therapy, and learning about nutrition. I was lucky to have people who talked me out of dark places and showed me a better way.
A year ago, back in Paris [Olympics], I felt strong in my body. Maybe not as strong in my head, but I was confident in what my body could do. Was I comfortable? Actually, no. When youโre vulnerable, the comparison game plays cruel tricks on you, and standing on that stage in Paris uncovered every vulnerable part of me. But hereโs what I know now. We come in different shapes, forms, and bodies. There is no one-size-fits-all. There is no perfect body. The way you look has so little to do with what youโre actually capable of. Donโt play the comparison game. It will bring you nothing but hurt.
The reality is, you either concentrate on being light or being strong. At the end of the day it is your strength that gets you up the wall in the form of grit, determination, mental and physical ability, experience, focus, timing, luck, the quality of your preparation and recovery, the joy that keeps you coming back, and your support team. I hope you find role models, and maybe even see a glimpse of that in my story, to remind you that chasing your dreams never has to cost you your health. I refused to give up on my dreams, and I refused to lose weight to get there. Becoming an Olympian wasnโt about being light enough. It was about years of rebuilding my relationship with my body and mind. Thatโs what Iโm most proud of.
Iโm sharing this not because I know the only way, but to help keep challenging harmful patterns in our sport, and to remind all people, from elite athletes to beginner climbers, that your worth has nothing to do with your weight or your results. It breaks my heart to see young athletes and everyday climbers alike fall into the same traps. Now more than ever, I want a better future for climbing and beyond. You matter. Your health matters. Climbing is supposed to bring you joy. Results are never worth your well-being. Cherish yourself, even if the world tells you otherwise. Let this be another call for change. Letโs create more support and education so climbers never have to feel alone in these struggles.โ
โIโve been meaning to write this post for a long time. It means a lot to me to finally talk about it, though somehow it still took a while to find the right words. I care deeply about our climbing community, and seeing younger climbers struggle makes me want to share my story in the hope that it will resonate with someone or help them feel safe to reach out for support. The worst part of any struggle is feeling completely isolated and alone.
In recent years, thereโs been more conversation in the climbing community about malnutrition, disordered eating and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). While I was lucky never to develop a full-blown eating disorder, Iโve been very familiar with disordered eating. When I was younger, I didnโt know any better. I thought I was being smart, analysing elite climbers of the 2000s and 2010s and assuming losing weight was the way to success. Being stubborn and persistent, I fell into constant dieting, malnutrition, and a skewed body image.
In 2016 in Paris, I vividly remember standing on a scale and feeling crushed. Iโd gained weight. Despite looking really thin in the photo, I still believed I needed to lose more. The moment I saw that number, some part of me gave up before the competition had even begun. A lot of fears made it hard to focus on what really mattered, as all the โwhat ifsโ started playing in my head: fear of failing, fear of judgement, fear of disappointment, fear of not being good enough. What I didnโt understand then was that constant malnutrition wasnโt just messing with my head. It was destroying my bodyโs ability to heal. I stayed injured far more often, took much longer to recover from hard sessions, and was basically living in survival mode. It didnโt even allow me to train to my full potential. In the end, all those food restrictions didnโt make me a better athlete; they actually harmed my physical and mental health.
Having fears is a very human thing, but what you do with them is the crucial part of the process. Years later, finding the courage to face my fears and work through them is what helped me the most. It took me years to find my balance, to learn from my mistakes, and to reach a place where I could truly be proud of what my body can do. It wasnโt a straight path. There were setbacks, moments I felt lost, and times I questioned if I was doing the right thing by refusing to play the โwho is lighterโ game. It took years of rewiring my brain, hard work in therapy, and learning about nutrition. I was lucky to have people who talked me out of dark places and showed me a better way.
A year ago, back in Paris [Olympics], I felt strong in my body. Maybe not as strong in my head, but I was confident in what my body could do. Was I comfortable? Actually, no. When youโre vulnerable, the comparison game plays cruel tricks on you, and standing on that stage in Paris uncovered every vulnerable part of me. But hereโs what I know now. We come in different shapes, forms, and bodies. There is no one-size-fits-all. There is no perfect body. The way you look has so little to do with what youโre actually capable of. Donโt play the comparison game. It will bring you nothing but hurt.
The reality is, you either concentrate on being light or being strong. At the end of the day it is your strength that gets you up the wall in the form of grit, determination, mental and physical ability, experience, focus, timing, luck, the quality of your preparation and recovery, the joy that keeps you coming back, and your support team. I hope you find role models, and maybe even see a glimpse of that in my story, to remind you that chasing your dreams never has to cost you your health. I refused to give up on my dreams, and I refused to lose weight to get there. Becoming an Olympian wasnโt about being light enough. It was about years of rebuilding my relationship with my body and mind. Thatโs what Iโm most proud of.
Iโm sharing this not because I know the only way, but to help keep challenging harmful patterns in our sport, and to remind all people, from elite athletes to beginner climbers, that your worth has nothing to do with your weight or your results. It breaks my heart to see young athletes and everyday climbers alike fall into the same traps. Now more than ever, I want a better future for climbing and beyond. You matter. Your health matters. Climbing is supposed to bring you joy. Results are never worth your well-being. Cherish yourself, even if the world tells you otherwise. Let this be another call for change. Letโs create more support and education so climbers never have to feel alone in these struggles.โ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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12 September 2010
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9 November 2012
Two 8a OS by Jenya Kazbekova (16)
Jenya Kazbekova has onsighted two 8a in Terradetts, Bon Viatge and Latido del miedo and she goes to #3 in the Junior ranking game. Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did hโฆ
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8a (+) OS by Jenya Kazbekova (17)
Jenya Kazbekova has onsighted El Corrdeor de la muerte 8a (+) in Rodellar and during the same week she also onsighted four 7c+. The 17 year old, who is #3 in thโฆ
12 September 2010
Youth Worlds - A great success!
This was a huge success for the IFSC and the streaming and commentators made it very interesting as soon as the technical problem, probably due to to many online visitors, was solved. The observation cooperation in the super final between Janicot and Posch just shows how unique and fantastic our spoโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


