
12 August 2024
Pepa ล indel, 16, ticks Pornographie (9a)
Pepa ล indel, who did his first 9a+ at age 14, has sent Pornographie (9a) in Cรฉรผse. "Low percentage move to a 2 finger pocket than an endurance finish. Done without knee pad and at 34ยฐC โ ๏ธ"
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The main goal of my stay in Cรฉรผse was the legendary Biographie 9a+, but than I changed my mind at the last moment and tried Pornographie 9a. It is a 20-meter power-endurance line on small crimps. The main difficulties lie in the difficult intro, hard crux where it is very difficult to stick a low percentage move to a two-finger pocket. This is followed by rest and an endurance finish. The whole time it was terribly hot in France, every day the temperatures exceeded 33ยฐC and the micro crimps just do not stick in such conditions... Last week I fought for a send every single try and fell after the crux due to a lack of endurance or often due to a fatal mistake. That's why I'm glad that I was able to climb the route even in such weather.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The main goal of my stay in Cรฉรผse was the legendary Biographie 9a+, but than I changed my mind at the last moment and tried Pornographie 9a. It is a 20-meter power-endurance line on small crimps. The main difficulties lie in the difficult intro, hard crux where it is very difficult to stick a low percentage move to a two-finger pocket. This is followed by rest and an endurance finish. The whole time it was terribly hot in France, every day the temperatures exceeded 33ยฐC and the micro crimps just do not stick in such conditions... Last week I fought for a send every single try and fell after the crux due to a lack of endurance or often due to a fatal mistake. That's why I'm glad that I was able to climb the route even in such weather.
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