Onsights declining due to grade and progress focus?

One possible explanation of why we see less hard core onsights done is that indoor gyms and training focus have moved climbing from being a lifestyle sport to be more performance-oriented also outdoors. Instead of doing multiple easier onsights while on road trips, it seems projecting a hard route is the name of the game today. If you do not practice your onsight skills continuously, it is a hard time to set new personal best. Being more competitive, it is harder mentally to fall on an onsight as you only have that opputunity. Falling on a redpoint creates much less anxiety as you can just lower down and go for it again. The twist of this more competitive focus, also outdoors, is that Adam Ondra, being the best climber in the world, is also the one focusing most on onsight. The message to all youngsters and their parents is to build a wide onsight pyramid and then you will progress automatically also in redpoint. Interview with Ondra being 13-years-old - "I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time." In the 8a ranking, created in 1999, you get 145 points extra for an onsight meaning a 7a onsight is less valuable than a 7b+ redpoint. We plan to change it to 155 points bonus. The ranking shows that current onsight ranking and alhough Ondra has limited time on rock, he is still #1. Interesting is also that the best female, Solveig Korherr, is #15.