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Onsight bouldering is perfect for kids 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe biggest challenge you can do in climbing is to try to onsight it, i.e. having no beta of how to execute the moves. This means also quite moderate climbs can turn into great test-pieces. Also Adam Ondra started off with a focus on onsight and this is what I always have told the eager parents to prodigy kids.

Just let them climb as many routes and boulders as possible onsight. This will reduce the grade hysteria and instead focus on solving puzzles. I mean, why should you as a parent try to guide them where to put the foot or in which order they should take the hand holds, when you do not have a clue anyhow.

Her are some further comments of Brandon Sullivan, after reading the avove draft article. He is a father of three sons 5, 7 and Keegan 9, who just came back from a Hueco Trip.

"By the end of the trip, Keegan had onsighted dozens of routes, including many classics. His proudest onsights were Big Iron on His Hip V7 and Hector in a Blender V7. He nearly flashed Better Eat Your Wheaties V9. He was confused on some of the moves and talked them out prior to his first attempt. After he worked his way through the crux, he hit a “rest” crimp and asked for the next move. I didn’t think he could span to the next decent hold so I suggested an intermediate. He went for the smaller hold and fell. Turns out, he could reach the better hold and sent next go. Maybe if dad didn’t spray he would have achieved the flash!

As a parent of budding youth climbers, I fully endorse focusing on onsights. It opens the entire guidebook to challenges regardless of grade, and adds a lot of fun to a day outdoors. It’s also a great method for practicing for indoor competitions, and takes the pressure off of constantly projecting at the top of one’s limits."