Oblivion 9a FA by Alex Rohr

6 September 2022

Alexander Rohr has done the FA of Oblivion (9a) in Gimmelwald. The 26-year-old has previously done a dozen 9a’s and last month he did his first 9a+, Change P1. (c) John Thornton

Yesterday I could do the first ascent of an old project in Gimmelwald. It is a link-up between Alpenbitter (8c+/9a) and Renardo Rules(8c/8c+). It consists of the first and easier part of Alpenbitter, a hard boulder crux, ~8A+, in the middle and the finish of Renardo Rules. There is no real rest and the main problem of the route is doing the 4 move boulder crux a little tired. The first two moves of the crux are not very hard but offer very tricky climbing with high probability of doing mistakes. One little mistake and the two last moves felt impossible.

I wanted to do this route before Flatanger but couldn‘t finish it. After returning from Norway, I immediately jumped on that challenge again and spent another four days until yesterday, when I could finally link all the moves together. I hesitated about the grade a little, but after the successful try, I repeated Alpenbitter as a training and had to realize, that the new link-up must be harder.”

1  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

Lena Müller and the ecological crises

24 December 2021

Lena Müller and the ecological crises

Lena Marie Müller is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In 2020, she became the fi…

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

5 May 2022

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. Af…

Siegrist comments - Harder grades in the USA?

5 February 2022

Siegrist comments - Harder grades in the USA?

Alexej Pinchuk has presented statistics of all 9a+ to 9c ascents. A total of 26 climbers from the US have done a 9a+, which can be compared with 21 from Spain a…

RELATED

Change P1 9a+ by Alex Rohr

15 August 2022

Change P1 9a+ by Alex Rohr

Alexander Rohr, who has previously done ten routes 9a and harder, has done Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger, thinking it deserves a slash upgrade. (c) John Thornton…

Change P1 9a+ by Seb Bouin

19 July 2022

Change P1 9a+ by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who in the last week has done one 9a+ and one 9a+ (b) in Flatanger, has sent Change P1 (9a+). Adam Ondra did the FA ten years ago and it is the…

Schwarz Mönch 9a (+) by Obed Hadmeier

25 October 2022

Schwarz Mönch 9a (+) by Obed Hadmeier

Obed Hardmeier has done Schwarz Mönch (9a), which is an extension to Renardo Rules (8c) that follows a beautiful black strip up the iconic wall in Gimmelwald. (…