3 August 2023
Oblivion (9a) by Marco Mรผller
Marco Mรผller, who previously has done eight 9a's, has sent Oblivion (9a) in Gimmelwald.
"The route is a linkup between 'Alpenbitter' and 'Renardo Rules', which creates a traverse with a new crux. I think it took me 2 sessions to do all the moves. The crux is going from a tricky heelhook to a bad 2-finger pocket to another pocket. It is super body tension and body position dependent. (I also couldn't do the original kneebar beta, as my torso is a tiny bit too short.) I then started trying from the ground and could almost always reach the traverse. But the key was to get there fresh in order to get into the right body positions. After multiple sessions, I finally stuck the last crux move and kept it together to the end."
"The route is a linkup between 'Alpenbitter' and 'Renardo Rules', which creates a traverse with a new crux. I think it took me 2 sessions to do all the moves. The crux is going from a tricky heelhook to a bad 2-finger pocket to another pocket. It is super body tension and body position dependent. (I also couldn't do the original kneebar beta, as my torso is a tiny bit too short.) I then started trying from the ground and could almost always reach the traverse. But the key was to get there fresh in order to get into the right body positions. After multiple sessions, I finally stuck the last crux move and kept it together to the end."
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