Noah Wheeler does Insomniac (8C+)

Noah Wheeler has completed Drew Ruana’s Insomniac (8C+) at Lincoln Lake. It starts doing eight moves of The wheel of wolvo (8B+) followed by a good rest and then continuous through We Can Build You (8B). (c) e.lusive

”My hardest yet given the style. Miraculously figured out the heel only recently which unlocked the possibility of trying the low. 6 or so sessions this year mostly around this month, but the stand took a few sessions last year. Felt a progressive sense of familiarity with the climb up until weather got bad, wherein doubt set in up until a lucky good day of weather the weekend before the road closes for 2 years. Made it out the cave!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did Wheel of Wolvo and Delirium back in the summer of 2022, with them feeling fairly comfortable, and came back in 2023 with the intention of sending Insomniac. I soon realized this goal was more hefty than I had anticipated because the heel move on the stand, We Can Build You, was particularly anti style (I think is has to do with an over-reliance on putting my weight in my upper-body). I barely gave start goes on Insomniac that year.

This year I came back and after a few mental shifts and analysis I discovered the move for myself, sending maybe a month after this awareness. Despite feeling the natural progression necessary for a climb this grade throughout the month, I was self-doubting myself the entire topout as I was incredibly numb and fairly pumped. Before making every next move after a certain point I was like “I’m falling now” but I kept moving in complete separation between my mind and body until the top.