Insomniac 8C+ by Daniel Woods

16 September 2022

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he has repeated Drew Ruana's Insomniac 8C+ at Lincoln Lake. It starts by doing eight moves of The Wheel of Wolvo followed by a good rest and then continuous through We Can Build You (8B+). (c) Wes Walker

"The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high(er) percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard V14 (8B+) but now it feels more like hard V13 (8B) . Insomniac is on the cusp of V15/16 (8C/8C+), but (I) do feel like it is harder than most V15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on."

The 33-year-old has been on the cutting edge since age 15 when he did his first 8c+ route and first 8B+ boulder. Starting in 2005, he won the American Nationals for ten years in a row and he has also won one World Cup. In total, he has done 40+ 8Cs and harder, including the FA of Return of the Sleepwalker (9A).

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