No pain no gain 9a+ by Martin Tekles

Martin Tekles has done No pain no gain (9a+) in Rodellar. On Insta he says he projected it for three trips and nearly eight weeks at the site. The 31-year-old finished his World Cup career, after ten years, in 2021. His best result was #9.

How did you prepare yourself between the trips and at the site?
Between the trips I trained mostly indoors on the spraywall and at Massone in Arco to get the specific endurance for roof climbing as most walls at home aren't that steep.

In Rodellar, I mostly climbed just this route to get this specific endurance. Training the route in sequences or climbing the first half of the route two times in a row to not get too pumped in the beginning. Before going for send tries I worked myself down from the chain, adding more clips and moves until I was able to link the upper half. Then I did send tries. Every day before doing send tries I bouldered through the route one time to get the feeling for the moves.

When was it you understood that you were about to send it?
It was only two days ago that I had the feeling I could actually do the route. I could do all the moves pretty fast after a few days last year on the first trip. But to link them and also do them when I came from the ground being pumped was something different. I had to change my beta several times.

Why is it only sends from the last three years in your logbook?
Before 2019 I did only compete in worldcups and finishing my psychology masterstudies (so there wasn't too much time beside 🤣). So all my hard routes are from 2019 till now. Before 2019 I climbed a couple 8c-8c+