
24 October 2022
No pain no gain 9a+ by Anak Verhoeven
Anak Verhoeven reports on Insta that she has repeated Dani Fuerte's No pain no gain (9a+) in Rodellar. (c) Leoni von Ristok
"I was focused, but not as nervous as during my first try a few days before. Lots of things could make me fall, but I tried to climb in a relaxed way nevertheless. When I reached the end of the last crux, I fought to stay on and managed to keep going. A big rest brought relief and gave me the energy for the last tricky boulder. And then I clipped the chains. :)"
How many days of projecting did it take?
Some 8 climbing days before sending.
What about going for 9b or even 9b+? It seems you have the level.
Maybe ;)
Anak was previously a very successful competition climber. She has won three World Cups and was runner-up eight times, almost always behind Janja Garnbret. The 26-year-old Belgian stopped competing in 2019 due to an elbow injury she first sustained in 2017. In 2020 she ruptured a pulley and had to undergo surgery. In total, she has now done 16 routes 8c+/9a and harder putting her #2 and just behind Laura Rogora on the leaderboard of hard redpointing.
"I was focused, but not as nervous as during my first try a few days before. Lots of things could make me fall, but I tried to climb in a relaxed way nevertheless. When I reached the end of the last crux, I fought to stay on and managed to keep going. A big rest brought relief and gave me the energy for the last tricky boulder. And then I clipped the chains. :)"
How many days of projecting did it take?
Some 8 climbing days before sending.
What about going for 9b or even 9b+? It seems you have the level.
Maybe ;)
Anak was previously a very successful competition climber. She has won three World Cups and was runner-up eight times, almost always behind Janja Garnbret. The 26-year-old Belgian stopped competing in 2019 due to an elbow injury she first sustained in 2017. In 2020 she ruptured a pulley and had to undergo surgery. In total, she has now done 16 routes 8c+/9a and harder putting her #2 and just behind Laura Rogora on the leaderboard of hard redpointing.
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