Nils Favre sends Bokassa's Fridge 8C

Nils Favre, who will compete in the Asia Boulder WCs in three weeks, reports on Insta that he has repeated Toni Lamprecht's Bokassa's Fridge 8C in Kochel. (c) Johanna Mielke

Can you tell us more about Bokassa and the climbing at Kochel?
Kochel is the closest place from Munich for bouldering/lead. The bouldering area is basically the base of the cliff, with a “slippery” rock. But, all strong climbers from Munich spent time there and there are a lot of hard routes/boulders. This boulder is one of the most logical lines of the area. It follows a prow and ends at an obvious crack/jug when it starts to be too high for bouldering.

It’s an eliminante because you are not allowed to use the left wall but quite logical as you follow the arete. (With the left wall it’s Antonator, 8B) Toni started the boulder at a defined position quite low. I climbed the boulder as it was first ascended, it’s already 18 hand moves and graded 8C/V15. Flo Wientjes did the first ascent of the sit last year. It adds 5 “easy but really tiring” moves for a total of 23 hand moves. I had 3 good tries on the sit start after sending the normal start but...

How does climbing on rock help you prepare for the upcoming Asia WCs?
Climbing outdoors has been a priority for me next to my training. I find myself way more motivated this way. I also realize that I’m trying/training way harder on the rock than plastic. I can also skip most of my finger training when I climb on the rock as I train them while climbing. Finally, I find myself extremely motivated for all the coordination moves when I don’t do them too often, and get maybe a bit “bored” when I do too many of them. But it would be wrong to say that I’m only climbing outdoors. I train a lot besides outdoor climbing but I would definitely spend even more time on the rock without competitions.

The beginning of the season was a bit stressful as Switzerland got only two spots for the World Cup. Sasha already got a spot because of the Olympic team so only one spot was available. I managed to win the selection comps to get my spots for the two first world cups.