18 July 2025
Niki Rusev ticks Spray of Light (8C)
Niki Rusev, who sent his first 9a route at age 14, has had an amazing day in Rocklands sending Spray of Light (8C), Reverse Cowgirl (8B+), one 8A+ as well as an 8A. The 19-year-old Bulgarian was runner up at the European Youth Championship two months ago. (c) Daniel Gajda
โWhat a day! Didnโt know about this boulder until I came to Rocklands๐ฟ๐ฆ. First few days were rainy and went to check out that cave where it was possible to climb during the storm โ๏ธ. I enjoyed the process of figuring out the moves but putting them all together at once seemed hard ๐ฅ. Even if I thought I planned my climbing days well I struggled with recovery and also jumped on too many different blocks๐ฎโ๐จ. I ended up exhausted and after I started to learn how to save some energy I decided to focus on one thing that I feel closer to send๐. I was still wondering which method I should use for that last part. I do usually like to use the most efficient way but this time I chose the more physical one. The toe hook (the less powerful beta) has more micro moves that pumped me even more and it just felt too technical for me๐ค. After one day rest and slow warm up it went down from the first send attempt. This is my first 8C. To be honest right after I sent it some thoughts appeared in my mind about the grade but I would say I do feel very poor in terms of experiencing hard grades, specially in bouldering.โ
โWhat a day! Didnโt know about this boulder until I came to Rocklands๐ฟ๐ฆ. First few days were rainy and went to check out that cave where it was possible to climb during the storm โ๏ธ. I enjoyed the process of figuring out the moves but putting them all together at once seemed hard ๐ฅ. Even if I thought I planned my climbing days well I struggled with recovery and also jumped on too many different blocks๐ฎโ๐จ. I ended up exhausted and after I started to learn how to save some energy I decided to focus on one thing that I feel closer to send๐. I was still wondering which method I should use for that last part. I do usually like to use the most efficient way but this time I chose the more physical one. The toe hook (the less powerful beta) has more micro moves that pumped me even more and it just felt too technical for me๐ค. After one day rest and slow warm up it went down from the first send attempt. This is my first 8C. To be honest right after I sent it some thoughts appeared in my mind about the grade but I would say I do feel very poor in terms of experiencing hard grades, specially in bouldering.โ
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