Niki Rusev flashes The Power of One (8B)

Niki Rusev has during a four weeks trip to Rocklands sent 23 boulders 8A and beyond including a flash of The Power of One (8B). ”It’s really hard to say how I feel about the grade because I felt like I had climbed it without too much difficulty but there were factors behind it. It fit my style pretty well but mostly if I hadn’t watched the crew climbing until I figure out the way I was going to try, I would have failed !! I’ve been trying to improve my flash go and for what I have no doubts it is a masterpiece and probably my hardest flash so far!”

Can you tell us more about your trip and flashing your first 8B?
After sending Spray of Light (8C) my focus moved to my side goal that was to flash an 8B.

I tried a couple 8B’s earlier in the trip, such as “Sky”, “Moon Shadow”, “Quintessential” and “El Corazon” but I was no where close to send in my first go. Second to last day we went to check out “The power of one” - another classic and amazing boulder in Rocklands.

Didn’t go with the idea to try it for a flash but when I saw the holds closer I thought it may fit my style and I should try anywayy. That day we were a big strong climbing group and we were able to discuss the holds and the moves. This helped me a lot to find the best beta that may work best for me and it worked for the first crux move but the last part was mostly freestyle and body instinct.

I also have mixed feelings about the grade, it’s difficult to say how I felt from just one try. I always want to give the best and honest opinion and not lie to myself but sometimes it is just too hard. I hope I get more experienced in the future!

I’ve never achieved the goals I wanted in my past rock climbing trips but Rocklands was definitely more than successful one!! But I also found myself being weak at short and sustained boulders. I do want work on this style and become stronger for next time. Besides climbing I had so much fun and I will try to come back for sure!

What are your upcoming competition plans?
I’m already back to Bulgaria and started training again for the World Championships in Seoul, Korea. I do enjoy training hard and take the most of every session, by this I will know I did everything I could to prepare the most!