Nicolai Užnik does Brain rot 8C (+) in an hour

Nicolai Užnik has sent Brain rot (8C+) and was very close to flash La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood, as can be seen in the video.

Can you tell us more about the trip and these two boulders?
It was really a great first day! I haven‘t been to Magic Wood in 5 years so I‘m super psyched to be here. We started the day on the classic Mystic Stylez (8B+) which after figuring out the beta, took me like 3 attempts from the ground. Afterwards I also wanted to check out Brain rot cause I already thought it could suit me quite well, which it also did eventually! After approximately an hour I managed to link this short crimpy boulder and top it out. Obviously it‘s always hard to grade these short kind of boulders, because if the moves suit you it can work out very well and otherwise maybe you have no chance at all. For me it didn‘t feel that bad to be fair, so maybe more like 8C or very low end 8C+ I guess. Either way fun to climb!

[Force Tranquille] I’ve had this one on my mind for quite a while and was really looking forward to trying to flash this legendary boulder. After watching watching a couple of videos, talking to Lukas Mayerhofer about the beta, and having my brother Timo Užnik check it out beforehand, I felt confident I could do it.

It was an almost perfect attempt - until the right-hand dyno. I caught the crimp just a little too far left, which made matching impossible in that moment. I tried to move to the next hold even though my left hand was barely hanging on, then hesitated, went back, paused for a second, felt my fingers growing more numb and tired… but decided to drop back down to the previous hold to make space for the left hand. Somehow, I managed to adjust just enough. At that point, I knew I shouldn’t fall anymore - it was worth taking a moment. Even though it was still really close, I managed to reach the two good slots right before the top out.

Completely numb fingers made me hesitate again - should I move straight away or rest a bit longer? I desperately tried to get some feeling back but couldn’t, so I just went for it. I’m pretty sure that if it hadn’t been for the slip, I wouldn’t have dropped it… but what can you do. 😅