Naturalmente 9a+ by Moroni and Bogliacino

Tuesday, 12 October

Gabriele Moroni and Lorenzo Bogliacino have done the first two repeats of Naturalmente 9a+ in Camaiore. It was bolted by Marcello Bruccini/Stefano Zanchetta, finished by Luca Lucchesi and freed by Adam Ondra in 2017.

Moroni, has previously done some 30 routes 8c+/9a and harder including Speed Integrale in Voralpsee, which he also did last week. Bogliacino, who previously has done two 9a's, comments.

"The first time I touched the holds of Naturalmente was two years ago, after the send of La Terza Età, my first 9a, but I couldn't reach the chain. I immediately understood that the difficulty was on a completely different scale. This May, after a good winter spent bouldering in Varazze with my girlfriend Elisa, I went back on the route and I could do all the movements, but my stamina was very low.

This summer I travelled and climbed a lot in France, before in Briancon and then in Verdon. After making the first repetition of Maxitraxion 8c+ in my home crag Pianbernardo and the majestic line of La flute en Chantier 8c+ in la Ramirole, I understood that I was in a good shape so at the beginning of September, I went back to try Naturalmente. Despite the night shift my job allows me to climb every 2-3 days per week, so, thanks to Elisa and all my friends in Tuscany (and of course with countless thousands of kilometres and a lot of money) I could often try the route.

After 14 days of work on the route with terrible conditions and a lot of fun with the most motivated people that I know, the last days were crazy. Last Thursday, Gabri Moroni made the first repetition of the route and on Saturday, thanks to the cold wind that blew in the crag, it was my turn! About the difficulty, for me it is much higher than the 9a's I have climbed and one of the most beautiful routes I've ever done; simply, for me, it is a dream that comes true!"

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