Vertical-Life
Naturalmente 9a+ by Moroni and Bogliacino
Moroni, has previously done some 30 routes 8c+/9a and harder including Speed Integrale in Voralpsee, which he also did last week. Bogliacino, who previously has done two 9a's, comments.
"The first time I touched the holds of Naturalmente was two years ago, after the send of La Terza Età, my first 9a, but I couldn't reach the chain. I immediately understood that the difficulty was on a completely different scale. This May, after a good winter spent bouldering in Varazze with my girlfriend Elisa, I went back on the route and I could do all the movements, but my stamina was very low.
This summer I travelled and climbed a lot in France, before in Briancon and then in Verdon. After making the first repetition of Maxitraxion 8c+ in my home crag Pianbernardo and the majestic line of La flute en Chantier 8c+ in la Ramirole, I understood that I was in a good shape so at the beginning of September, I went back to try Naturalmente. Despite the night shift my job allows me to climb every 2-3 days per week, so, thanks to Elisa and all my friends in Tuscany (and of course with countless thousands of kilometres and a lot of money) I could often try the route.
After 14 days of work on the route with terrible conditions and a lot of fun with the most motivated people that I know, the last days were crazy. Last Thursday, Gabri Moroni made the first repetition of the route and on Saturday, thanks to the cold wind that blew in the crag, it was my turn! About the difficulty, for me it is much higher than the 9a's I have climbed and one of the most beautiful routes I've ever done; simply, for me, it is a dream that comes true!"
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Lorenzo Bogliacino opens Prima Classe (9a)
Lorenzo Bogliacino, who last year sent Naturalmente (9a+), has done the FA of Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione. Can you tell us more about the ascent?During th…
Gabri Moroni repeats Erebor (9b)
Gabriele Moroni, who has already done 22 routes 9a to 9a+, has sent Stefano Ghisolfi’s Erebor (9b) in Arco. The Italian is a former successful competition climb…
Gabri Moroni sends La Rambla (9a+)
Gabriele Moroni has repeated La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. Originally it was Alexander Huber's project and in 1994 he made it to the first anchor. In 2003, Ramon …
Lorenzo Bogliacino opens Prima Classe (9a)
Lorenzo Bogliacino, who last year sent Naturalmente (9a+), has done the FA of Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione. Can you tell us more about the ascent?During th…
Gabri Moroni repeats Erebor (9b)
Gabriele Moroni, who has already done 22 routes 9a to 9a+, has sent Stefano Ghisolfi’s Erebor (9b) in Arco. The Italian is a former successful competition climb…
Gabri Moroni sends La Rambla (9a+)
Gabriele Moroni has repeated La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. Originally it was Alexander Huber's project and in 1994 he made it to the first anchor. In 2003, Ramon …
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…