14 April 2023

Will Bosi claims the first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A)

William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the first-ever 9A boulder in 2016 after Nalle had projected it for three years. Last July, Will made the FA of Honey Badger (8C+) and in October he repeated Alphane (9A), after 12 sessions but he did not confirm the grade as he thought his 8C+ FA was more challenging for him. (c) Diego Borello

Burden of Dreams is characterised by a pure style moving through tiny crimps and crystals on a 45 degree angled boulder and has repelled some of the very best climbers in the world who have attempted it until Bosi’s ascent. Will spent fourteen days on the boulder as well as ten days on the replica back in Sheffield at the Lattice Headquarters so twenty-four days in total spent working on the problem. This is the longest Will has spent on a single boulder problem and he confirmed the grade as 9A/V17 as well as being the biggest bouldering challenge he has undertaken to date.

Commenting on the second ascent, Bosi said “It feels unbelievable right now! I came to the boulder today thinking it would be too hot to climb but the warm up felt incredible and on the send I flew through the bottom section and after dropping the top hold previously, this time it all came together!” On the grade of the problem: “From the overall experience on this boulder from working the replica to finally sending it, I think it’s a step up from everything else I have done and it is a huge step up from any 8C/+ I’ve done. Therefore I think it definitely deserves 9A!

What was most challenging about projecting a 4-5 move 9A boulder?
I think the hardest thing is being patient. As each move is so hard you need good skin and to be rested. So you have to take a lot of rest days and have short sessions. Which can definitely be frustrating as I just want to keep climbing.

How much did you benefit from the replica training?
I benefited so much from the replica training! I feel like every replica session was as good training as a session on the actual boulder. Therefore I got an extra ten sessions.

How was the cooperation and camaraderie with the other guys projecting along with you?
It was extremely useful and like my Alphane experience, it helps you learn so much micro beta and the psych you get off each other is incredible.

What lessons have you learned and what does the ascent mean to you?
The ascent means so much to me as I never thought I would ever climb a boulder like this. So, I think I’ve learned that I am capable of more than I thought I was and I’m looking forward to finding my own BODs in the future.
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William Bosi made the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in April. Here is the progress interview three weeks prior to the send and here Bosi comments his ascent.