24 October 2021

Dreamtime 8C by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has done his third 8C in 2021, Dreamtime in Cresciano. Interesting is that although doing his first 8B+ in 2013, in the last three years the 187 cm tall and 34-years-old has been on steady progress.

"This one was a bit longer in the making. Lets be honest, who doesn't dream of dreamtime? I was thinking of Dreamtime for years. But finger injuries, snow and rain kept me from really trying it. With Newyear, it got serious and I went for it. Did it in 2 parts, but was doubting my beta for the crux (the long move) a lot. Did it with the heel with the new year, but was never happy with the small/sharp edge. Now I came back and with some micro changes was comfortable with the jump. That motivated a lot. Still needed 3 sessions this trip to get it down. So good, so classic. Just Dreamtime."

How can you explain your great continuous progress over the last three years? It kinda feels like I am getting a little better every year. But it is hard to say. I think that it helps that I focussed a bit more on the hard lines this year. Taking extra rest days (one day on one day off) and trying less easy lines. What also helps, is that we have a nice little hardcore group in my home gym (Tim Reuser and Don van Laere), and we go HARD together. Always on the spray wall thinking of harder and harder problems.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Nearly 2,000 hectares of Font Forest destroyed by wildfire
Exceptional wildfires are currently sweeping through parts of France's Fontainebleau Forest. Located around 70 km south-east of Paris, the UNESCO Biosphere Reseโ€ฆ
Related
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen does Baby Shark (8C)
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has repeated Giuliano Cameroniโ€™s Baby Shark (8C) in Tegna and here is the Instagram video. โ€Super cool little boulder in the most chill lโ€ฆ
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen flashes Afterlife (8B)
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has flashed Afterlife (8B) in Felbertal. Here is his Instagram video. Can you tell us more about the flash? I have been chasing this foโ€ฆ
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen, 38, flashes ADHS (8B)
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen, who flashed his first 8B last year, has flashed ADHS (8B) in Schwarzenbach a.d.S., and here is the Instagram video. Some have actually sโ€ฆ