Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen does Baby Shark (8C)

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has repeated Giuliano Cameroni’s Baby Shark (8C) in Tegna and here is the Instagram video. ”Super cool little boulder in the most chill location ever. Crazy marble [like] holds, one little mistake and you slip. I think I never found anything that suits me as good as this one: low foot and crazy heels.”

The 39-year-old, who is 187 cm tall, is peaking, having sent ten 8B+ boulders and harder over the past year and a half.

How was the process taking it down?
It is located on a unique place that feels a bit like a beach. All the way down in the valley near Locarno. The downside of it is that it is warm there, so I had to wait most of the day for the temps to drop a bit (it is in the shade all day, but still). When it is ideal climbing weather that is kinda weird (for me). So keeping calm and focussed was key.

The boulder itself is on the most slippery marble-like rock. For both hands and feet it is super important to be precise. For me, that made the first few moves the most difficult.

How can you best explain your recent peak?
I don't know if I am at my best right now, hard to say. But I feel good and as long I can stretch this shape for a few more years I would be happy.

How does a normal climbing week look like and how much outdoors?
Usually 4x on the local spraywall and a day of setting. Nothing special hahaha. I do change a spray sesh for a Kilter every once in a while.

We don't have any rock in the Netherlands. So a day outside is not an option. I usually go on multiple trips a year. I prefer a week over a few weekends.