Mei Kotake does New Base Line (8B+)

Mei Kotake, who won the Lead World Cup in Briancon two weeks ago, has completed New base line (8B+) in Magic Wood. (c) Vladek Zumr

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It took me three days to send New Base Line. I made all the moves during the two first days and got the hang of them. Then, I started connecting and sent it on the third day. This is my first 8B+ but I sent caricature (8B) in Hourai this March. It was graded 8B by Dai Koyamada at first, but I felt it was 8B+. Only some climbers could send it. After sending it and some 8A+' in Japan, I feel that I was able to understand how to approach high-grade problems. Therefore, I could send New Base Line. I used to focus my training on competitions. However, I really have to be strong and get better at climbing technic to send hard projects outdoors. Mixing with my knowledge and experience of competitions, my results is getting better.

What is your next project?
I’m working on Supercrackinette (9a+). This is my biggest gold! I was able to connect both the first and the second half earlier this spring. I’ll go back there next spring.