Mattéo Soulé does Action Directe (9a)

Mattéo Soulé has repeated Wolfgang Gullich’s Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. It was put up in 1991 as the first 9a in the world and has been repeated at least 33 times. The 19-year-old has previously done six routes 9a and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This route had always made me dream because it is a part of the history of rockclimbing, and i really like the one and two finger pocket. I decided to try it this year with my friend Justin and we came for 2 weeks with this project. Unfortunately he got hurt and couldn’t continue trying with me. At my first climb i did all the movement expect the first that i didn’t try and on the next one i flashed this one. After that i directly put try where i fell halfway the route.

After all the other attempts I was just falling for this random movement. Then I made a hole in my skin at the first movement and I stopped trying it a little and focused on the end. Until sending from the second movement. The next day I put on a cold test because I felt good and I fell again at the same movement. I then put back a test but and I managed to pass the movement that caused me a problem and after that I forced more than I needed but it allowed me to fight and get to the top. It wasn’t my best attempt because I lost my feet several times but I felt super good and relaxed. I was so happy when I got to the top and even now I have trouble realizing.