25 April 2023

Dylan Chuat does Action Directe (9a)

Dylan Chuat, who last year did two 9a+'s has sent Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. "Omg, I didn't think I'd be able to do the route so quickly and it was wet, I was so happy to do this major and historic route! Thank you Wolfgang for this piece of history that I could climb with so much happiness!!! Very happy to have been able to find a route that I could climb with my broken pulley."

Can you tell us more about climbing Action?
All in all, I made six tries in the route divided into 3 sessions because the route was always wet but it just worked anyway. I decided to do this route because I broke a pulley 6 months ago and I still canโ€™t take a crimp so I thought it would be nice revenge on my injury to do this route. There was no move harder than the other but in the two moves with the 2-finger pockets just after the throw I had hard times. Thanks to Malik who saw I had not used the right foot correctly.

What's next and what are your 2023 plans?
I donโ€™t have a precise plan for 2023. I would like my finger to be 100% repaired and to carry out the 2-3 small projects around my home.
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Action Directe (9a) by Vojta Trojan
Vojta Trojan, who already has eight 9a's to his name, has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. "The day of the send AD was all wet when we got there - I didโ€ฆ
Action Directe 9a by Marco Zanone
Marco Zanone, who in 2022 previously has done three 9a's and his first 9a+, has sent Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura, in just six sessions. (c) Andrea Zanoneโ€ฆ
Michaล‚ Korban repeats Action Directe (9a)
Michaล‚ Korban, with one 8c+ under his belt, has completed Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. It was put up in 1991 by Wolfgang Gรผllich as the first 9a in the wโ€ฆ