Luca Bertacco ticks Flow State (8C)

Luca Bertacco skips 8B+ and does Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. Focusing mainly on routes, the 24-year-old has sent 9a and flashed 8c.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I came into the valley early Saturday morning without a clear idea of what I really wanted to try; at the time, I had three problems in mind that were equally motivating, but only two of them seemed truly doable in a short amount of time. One of them was "Flow State." I have nothing but fond memories of this boulder; since the first time when I managed to flash You drive me crazy (8A) to last Tuesday when I managed to send Grizzly (8B) and Flow (8B) in a single day in just a few tries. So trying the full link seemed like the obvious choice. That morning the valley was super quiet because it had recently rained, and there were few people around.

From the warm-up, the feeling was more than good; after a couple of pulls on the hangboard and with the elastic band, I decided to do a reconnaissance run of "Flow" to re-examine the exit, which I had only seen once before, not knowing that I would quickly find myself at the top of the problem.

More psyched than ever, I returned to the base of the boulder and began reviewing the sequences of the first section, which I needed to climb perfectly to get back to where I started my reconnaissance. The first two tries didn't go bad, but due to some hesitation and small mistakes, I fall on the exit with the sloper of the crux sequence in my hand. I knew it was only a matter of time; the first two goes convinced me that I had the abilities to do the boulder, so I didn't fret needlessly. After a good rest, I sat under the start of the boulder, and without realizing it, something switched in my head and I entered the flow state. In the first section, I didn't repeat the small mistakes I'd made previously and felt the holds like never before. I reached the rest point halfway up and focused on my breathing. When I've decided to go again, I wasn't thinking about anything; my body was simply doing what it had already done before and what my mind knew could be done.

When I woke up, I find my self on the top of the boulder with a sense of lightness I hadn't felt in a long time. Days like this remind me why I love this sport; I think only climbing can provide that sense of addiction that pushes you to try something to your limit, without making you feel completely satisfied once you reach your goal. I'm so happy that my first problem of this grade came so unexpectedly and naturally, especially in a place close to home that is increasingly gaining a place in my heart. For this reason, I want to thank everyone who has contributed to enhance this valley and who continues to do so by opening and cleaning new problems, because I believe it's not an easy job, justifiable only with a healthy dose of passion. Thanks also to Kevin for the great company and for capturing the magical moment with some of the best photos I have while climbing! See you soon Val Daone!