Matteo Marobin does Supercrackinette (9a+)

Matteo Marobin reports on Instagram that he has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. Last year, the 18-year-old made the FA of a 36-year-old project.

Can you tell us more about the Crackinette and your climbing background?
When I was 16 I spent a week in St. Léger. At that time I didn’t climb as hard as I do now. The hardest routes [I did] were only 8b but I remember seeing people trying Super Crackinette with my Dad. It’s located at the end of the sector, with nothing else around.

In the following years, I continued to train hard, which led to some great performances and results. Last year, I sent my first two 9a's (''Flesh For Fantasy“ and ''Remise de Pène“). I also managed to get two top 5 results and a 6th place in some European Youth Cups in lead and bouldering.

For my first year in the adult category, I have decided to put my main focus on lead competitions. Since there aren’t many comps at the beginning of the year, I thought it would be a good idea to try something hard outdoors. It’s a nice way to see improvement through training. That was when Super Craquinette came to my mind. I knew I was finally ready for this route !

My journey began in December with two trips to St. Léger. At the start, I was just trying to find right beta and get familiar with the route. Still, the route already felt really good and I made some good links. This made me think that it would be possible to climb soon.

The second trip wasn‘t as good as the first one. Mainly because I was still tired from all the training I had the week before. Additionally, I broke an important hold in the first part of the route. Despite all these inconveniences, I climbed the route with only one stop in the middle.

As the first trips had already been quite successful, I returned in February. This time my goal was clear: I wanted to send the route! After two days of trying I started to make attempts from the ground. Almost every time I fell at the first crux, going into the mono, but I could send the rest of the route pretty easily. After a few days I found the perfect feeling for this move. That way I was really close to sticking the move into the mono. This was the exact moment when I knew that I was really close, which made me really excited for the following days. The next day I stuck the first crux move with ease, but unfortunately fell on the last hard move. At the end of the day I decided to make one last attempt. Despite bad weather conditions, slippery holds and a bad mindset, I still tried to give everything. I found myself at the top of the route and finally clipped the anchor of Super Crackinette.