
31 March 2025
Matteo Gambaro, 50, ticks Creuza de ma (8c+)
Matteo Gambero, who last autumn did his seventh 9a, has repeated Davide Carenaโs Creuza de ma (8c+) in Finale.
Can you tell us more about your latest ascent?
I love climbing always motivated on the projects I try. Sometimes they are beautiful and in beautiful places, sometimes less so, but it is the process of improvement and the inner journey that can sometimes prevail over the objective beauty of the route. This route was bolted by friends in a particular place. It is a former quarry and the rock is often dusty, but even if it rains you can climb. furthermore this route is very modern and physical with some precarious kneebars. I really enjoy trying it when the weather was bad and it was a great workout. Now the good season begins and in addition to bolting new lines I will dedicate myself to even more ambitious projects!
How does a normal climbing week look like and what is the focus pushing for the more ambitious projects at age 50?
I don't have a particular routine but I try to prepare myself as best as possible by trying the projects I choose and training my shortcomings specifically. I always look for new projects both by bolting new lines and by trying routes that I've already climbed but that fascinate me. I live climbing as always and if I'm in good health I don't feel the difference and the weight of age. It's certainly very different now than at 30 but the present is what counts.
Can you tell us more about your latest ascent?
I love climbing always motivated on the projects I try. Sometimes they are beautiful and in beautiful places, sometimes less so, but it is the process of improvement and the inner journey that can sometimes prevail over the objective beauty of the route. This route was bolted by friends in a particular place. It is a former quarry and the rock is often dusty, but even if it rains you can climb. furthermore this route is very modern and physical with some precarious kneebars. I really enjoy trying it when the weather was bad and it was a great workout. Now the good season begins and in addition to bolting new lines I will dedicate myself to even more ambitious projects!
How does a normal climbing week look like and what is the focus pushing for the more ambitious projects at age 50?
I don't have a particular routine but I try to prepare myself as best as possible by trying the projects I choose and training my shortcomings specifically. I always look for new projects both by bolting new lines and by trying routes that I've already climbed but that fascinate me. I live climbing as always and if I'm in good health I don't feel the difference and the weight of age. It's certainly very different now than at 30 but the present is what counts.
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First 9a by Matteo Gambaro (35)
Gambaro Matteo has done his first 9a and the FA of Azione Directa in La Piatta. It is 18 m long and it took the 35-year-old three months of work. And he has a nice website :-)
Pietro Biagini (15) has done his first 8c+, Last Man in Albenga which was put up last week by Gambaro Matteo who is 25 years older than young Biagini. Pietro has been Top-8 in both Lead and Boulder Euro Youth Cups. Matteo did his first 8c the year before Pietro was born and even so, the last 12 montโฆ
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