20 March 2022

Comité d'accueil 9a by Matteo Gambaro (47)

Matteo Gambaro, who did his first 9a, out of six, at age 35, has done Comité d'accueil (9a) in Séranon.

"We discovered the crag of Seranon this winter and the place is really beautiful. It is two and a half hours from our house and we went often in a day or for two days with our van. The routes are very technical and slightly overhanging. The style is varied between small grips and pockets and cracks. I climbed the two really beautiful 8b and then I started trying the 9a which forks from the more aesthetic 8b. The first part is technical up to a small rest. Here begins a very difficult sequence on small tricks often opposed up to a reverse crack. From here it takes a lot of head and arms to get to the top with a very random exit movement.

The first days I spent studying the movements which seemed really difficult and strange. Often the hot sun of this January made it impossible for me to progress. I tried the route one day a week often after work and after the first few days, I managed to do all the difficult parts. Yesterday it was very cold and the sun was hazy. In the beginning, I didn't think I could warm my fingers but after a long warm-up on the route, I decided to give it a try which was successful. Thanks to Elena, in the picture, who always accompanies me and who also struggles with her project."
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