Martina Demmel #1 in OS ahead of the male 2021


Wednesday, 5 January

Martina Demmel becomes the first-ever female to have won the 8a annual onsight ranking game. In total, the 20-year-old onsighted 18 routes 8a+ and harder in 2021. If we start from 7c and harder she has done a stunning 138 onsights the last year. Amazingly, she did her first 7c onsight when she had only climbed for 1.5 years and that was just 2.5 years ago. In 2021, she did also her first 9a and she won also the overall female ranking game and among the boys, she was #16. During the last three years, she has almost exclusively been climbing outdoors, besides training specifically for the World Cups.

Here is a sum up from her Insta: "I had the opportunity to spend 265 days for more than a single day away from home🏡! Enjoyed 194 days of touching rock in all kind of conditions👐☀️❄ and luckily only 50 days on plastic including 6 international comps🇦🇹🇨🇭🇨🇵🇵🇾🇷🇺 + my foot injury🦶 which also forced me to change my habits but definitely has a better effect on progressing💥.

Reached the 🔗 of 655 routes, 189 had been 8a and harder out of which 55 lines had been on the lucky side with an onsight🤯👀. The top destinations this year have been the 'Hautes Alpes' around Briançon with 40 days on rock🏔🧀🇨🇵, followed by my homecrag with 33 days🏞, 30 days in Chulilla to survive the winter😜🌞🍊, 25 days of a nonstop surreal send-🚂 in Oliana🧚‍♀️🇪🇦, the magical Frankenjura with 12 climbing days🌲, 9 days in both Seynes and Margalef to kick off a supposed to be longer road-trip🏕😅 and lots of more unique places with rather short trips closer to home😍😍!"

During the last three weeks, she has only been training indoor as she broke her foot in a bad fall in Oliana but from her Insta we can see that her psych is high, training harder than ever. She broke her foot by crashing too hard into the wall after a big fall. Showing the spirit, she continued the route and two days later she was back on the rock just about to tie in until she was convinced to go to the hospital.

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