5 January 2022

Martina Demmel #1 in OS ahead of the male 2021

Martina Demmel becomes the first-ever female to have won the 8a annual onsight ranking game. In total, the 20-year-old onsighted 18 routes 8a+ and harder in 2021. If we start from 7c and harder she has done a stunning 138 onsights the last year. Amazingly, she did her first 7c onsight when she had only climbed for 1.5 years and that was just 2.5 years ago. In 2021, she did also her first 9a and she won also the overall female ranking game and among the boys, she was #16. During the last three years, she has almost exclusively been climbing outdoors, besides training specifically for the World Cups.

Here is a sum up from her Insta: "I had the opportunity to spend 265 days for more than a single day away from home๐Ÿก! Enjoyed 194 days of touching rock in all kind of conditions๐Ÿ‘โ˜€๏ธโ„ and luckily only 50 days on plastic including 6 international comps๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ต๐Ÿ‡ต๐Ÿ‡พ๐Ÿ‡ท๐Ÿ‡บ + my foot injury๐Ÿฆถ which also forced me to change my habits but definitely has a better effect on progressing๐Ÿ’ฅ.

Reached the ๐Ÿ”— of 655 routes, 189 had been 8a and harder out of which 55 lines had been on the lucky side with an onsight๐Ÿคฏ๐Ÿ‘€. The top destinations this year have been the 'Hautes Alpes' around Brianรงon with 40 days on rock๐Ÿ”๐Ÿง€๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ต, followed by my homecrag with 33 days๐Ÿž, 30 days in Chulilla to survive the winter๐Ÿ˜œ๐ŸŒž๐ŸŠ, 25 days of a nonstop surreal send-๐Ÿš‚ in Oliana๐Ÿงšโ€โ™€๏ธ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ฆ, the magical Frankenjura with 12 climbing days๐ŸŒฒ, 9 days in both Seynes and Margalef to kick off a supposed to be longer road-trip๐Ÿ•๐Ÿ˜… and lots of more unique places with rather short trips closer to home๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜!"


During the last three weeks, she has only been training indoor as she broke her foot in a bad fall in Oliana but from her Insta we can see that her psych is high, training harder than ever. She broke her foot by crashing too hard into the wall after a big fall. Showing the spirit, she continued the route and two days later she was back on the rock just about to tie in until she was convinced to go to the hospital.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling iโ€ฆ
Martina Demmel interview
Martina Demmel onsighted Pata pa mi 8b (a+) in 2019 after having climbed for less than three years. The next year she made it to the semifinal in her debut Worlโ€ฆ
8a has published the โ€œClimber of the Yearโ€ list for the past 20 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. Please feel frโ€ฆ