
5 January 2022
Martina Demmel #1 in OS ahead of the male 2021
Martina Demmel becomes the first-ever female to have won the 8a annual onsight ranking game. In total, the 20-year-old onsighted 18 routes 8a+ and harder in 2021. If we start from 7c and harder she has done a stunning 138 onsights the last year. Amazingly, she did her first 7c onsight when she had only climbed for 1.5 years and that was just 2.5 years ago. In 2021, she did also her first 9a and she won also the overall female ranking game and among the boys, she was #16. During the last three years, she has almost exclusively been climbing outdoors, besides training specifically for the World Cups.
Here is a sum up from her Insta: "I had the opportunity to spend 265 days for more than a single day away from home๐ก! Enjoyed 194 days of touching rock in all kind of conditions๐โ๏ธโ and luckily only 50 days on plastic including 6 international comps๐ฆ๐น๐จ๐ญ๐จ๐ต๐ต๐พ๐ท๐บ + my foot injury๐ฆถ which also forced me to change my habits but definitely has a better effect on progressing๐ฅ.
Reached the ๐ of 655 routes, 189 had been 8a and harder out of which 55 lines had been on the lucky side with an onsight๐คฏ๐. The top destinations this year have been the 'Hautes Alpes' around Brianรงon with 40 days on rock๐๐ง๐จ๐ต, followed by my homecrag with 33 days๐, 30 days in Chulilla to survive the winter๐๐๐, 25 days of a nonstop surreal send-๐ in Oliana๐งโโ๏ธ๐ช๐ฆ, the magical Frankenjura with 12 climbing days๐ฒ, 9 days in both Seynes and Margalef to kick off a supposed to be longer road-trip๐๐ and lots of more unique places with rather short trips closer to home๐๐!"
During the last three weeks, she has only been training indoor as she broke her foot in a bad fall in Oliana but from her Insta we can see that her psych is high, training harder than ever. She broke her foot by crashing too hard into the wall after a big fall. Showing the spirit, she continued the route and two days later she was back on the rock just about to tie in until she was convinced to go to the hospital.
Here is a sum up from her Insta: "I had the opportunity to spend 265 days for more than a single day away from home๐ก! Enjoyed 194 days of touching rock in all kind of conditions๐โ๏ธโ and luckily only 50 days on plastic including 6 international comps๐ฆ๐น๐จ๐ญ๐จ๐ต๐ต๐พ๐ท๐บ + my foot injury๐ฆถ which also forced me to change my habits but definitely has a better effect on progressing๐ฅ.
Reached the ๐ of 655 routes, 189 had been 8a and harder out of which 55 lines had been on the lucky side with an onsight๐คฏ๐. The top destinations this year have been the 'Hautes Alpes' around Brianรงon with 40 days on rock๐๐ง๐จ๐ต, followed by my homecrag with 33 days๐, 30 days in Chulilla to survive the winter๐๐๐, 25 days of a nonstop surreal send-๐ in Oliana๐งโโ๏ธ๐ช๐ฆ, the magical Frankenjura with 12 climbing days๐ฒ, 9 days in both Seynes and Margalef to kick off a supposed to be longer road-trip๐๐ and lots of more unique places with rather short trips closer to home๐๐!"
During the last three weeks, she has only been training indoor as she broke her foot in a bad fall in Oliana but from her Insta we can see that her psych is high, training harder than ever. She broke her foot by crashing too hard into the wall after a big fall. Showing the spirit, she continued the route and two days later she was back on the rock just about to tie in until she was convinced to go to the hospital.
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