
5 January 2022
Martina Demmel #1 in OS ahead of the male 2021
Martina Demmel becomes the first-ever female to have won the 8a annual onsight ranking game. In total, the 20-year-old onsighted 18 routes 8a+ and harder in 2021. If we start from 7c and harder she has done a stunning 138 onsights the last year. Amazingly, she did her first 7c onsight when she had only climbed for 1.5 years and that was just 2.5 years ago. In 2021, she did also her first 9a and she won also the overall female ranking game and among the boys, she was #16. During the last three years, she has almost exclusively been climbing outdoors, besides training specifically for the World Cups.
Here is a sum up from her Insta: "I had the opportunity to spend 265 days for more than a single day away from home๐ก! Enjoyed 194 days of touching rock in all kind of conditions๐โ๏ธโ and luckily only 50 days on plastic including 6 international comps๐ฆ๐น๐จ๐ญ๐จ๐ต๐ต๐พ๐ท๐บ + my foot injury๐ฆถ which also forced me to change my habits but definitely has a better effect on progressing๐ฅ.
Reached the ๐ of 655 routes, 189 had been 8a and harder out of which 55 lines had been on the lucky side with an onsight๐คฏ๐. The top destinations this year have been the 'Hautes Alpes' around Brianรงon with 40 days on rock๐๐ง๐จ๐ต, followed by my homecrag with 33 days๐, 30 days in Chulilla to survive the winter๐๐๐, 25 days of a nonstop surreal send-๐ in Oliana๐งโโ๏ธ๐ช๐ฆ, the magical Frankenjura with 12 climbing days๐ฒ, 9 days in both Seynes and Margalef to kick off a supposed to be longer road-trip๐๐ and lots of more unique places with rather short trips closer to home๐๐!"
During the last three weeks, she has only been training indoor as she broke her foot in a bad fall in Oliana but from her Insta we can see that her psych is high, training harder than ever. She broke her foot by crashing too hard into the wall after a big fall. Showing the spirit, she continued the route and two days later she was back on the rock just about to tie in until she was convinced to go to the hospital.
Here is a sum up from her Insta: "I had the opportunity to spend 265 days for more than a single day away from home๐ก! Enjoyed 194 days of touching rock in all kind of conditions๐โ๏ธโ and luckily only 50 days on plastic including 6 international comps๐ฆ๐น๐จ๐ญ๐จ๐ต๐ต๐พ๐ท๐บ + my foot injury๐ฆถ which also forced me to change my habits but definitely has a better effect on progressing๐ฅ.
Reached the ๐ of 655 routes, 189 had been 8a and harder out of which 55 lines had been on the lucky side with an onsight๐คฏ๐. The top destinations this year have been the 'Hautes Alpes' around Brianรงon with 40 days on rock๐๐ง๐จ๐ต, followed by my homecrag with 33 days๐, 30 days in Chulilla to survive the winter๐๐๐, 25 days of a nonstop surreal send-๐ in Oliana๐งโโ๏ธ๐ช๐ฆ, the magical Frankenjura with 12 climbing days๐ฒ, 9 days in both Seynes and Margalef to kick off a supposed to be longer road-trip๐๐ and lots of more unique places with rather short trips closer to home๐๐!"
During the last three weeks, she has only been training indoor as she broke her foot in a bad fall in Oliana but from her Insta we can see that her psych is high, training harder than ever. She broke her foot by crashing too hard into the wall after a big fall. Showing the spirit, she continued the route and two days later she was back on the rock just about to tie in until she was convinced to go to the hospital.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
19 March 2021
8c 2nd Go and 8b OS by Martina Demmel (19)
Martina Demmel has onsighted Picos Pardos 8b and done American Hastle 8c on her second go in Oliana.American Hastle: "No way, did this really happened!? Quite aโฆ
8 April 2021
Mind Control 8c 2nd Go by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel continues her strike in Oliana by doing Mind Control 8c and Crimptonite 8b+ on her second attempt. The 19-year-old is #1 in the female ranking gaโฆ
16 December 2021
Martina Demmel presentation
Martina Demmel started climbing at age 15. Four years later she did her first 9a at the same time she was #1, including the males, in the Top-50 8a onsight game. Interestingly, she has during the last three years almost exclusively only been training outside and not done any physical training. 9a inโฆ
Related news
19 March 2021
8c 2nd Go and 8b OS by Martina Demmel (19)
Martina Demmel has onsighted Picos Pardos 8b and done American Hastle 8c on her second go in Oliana.American Hastle: "No way, did this really happened!? Quite aโฆ
8 April 2021
Mind Control 8c 2nd Go by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel continues her strike in Oliana by doing Mind Control 8c and Crimptonite 8b+ on her second attempt. The 19-year-old is #1 in the female ranking gaโฆ
16 December 2021
Martina Demmel presentation
Martina Demmel started climbing at age 15. Four years later she did her first 9a at the same time she was #1, including the males, in the Top-50 8a onsight game. Interestingly, she has during the last three years almost exclusively only been training outside and not done any physical training. 9a inโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ




