19 March 2021
8c 2nd Go and 8b OS by Martina Demmel (19)
Martina Demmel has onsighted Picos Pardos 8b and done American Hastle 8c on her second go in Oliana.
American Hastle: "No way, did this really happened!? Quite an untypical style for Oliana but a true king line in the middle of the cliff! For me about 8 boulders mostly with tensiony shoulder- & undercling moves separated by good rests all the way to a spicy slab at 50m where I totally forgot my beta... windy condis, lots of cheering from the crew & low expectations made it possible:) one of the closest battles I ever had!"
Picos Pardos: "When the rest day gets out of control and your other projects aren't free! Sending train at the cliff today with two other ascents at the same time; the Spanish guys were cheering soo loud that it even helped me passing the crux with thousands of drop knees! Perfect 5star bubble tufas in the upper part:)โ
Could you please tell us something about your onsight flow/strategy?
If there would be a strategy...;) honestly I mostly decide which route I'm gonna try in the last seconds before starting to climb which probably doesn't leave space for any expectations๐๐คทโโ๏ธ and what I love about onsighting is that you automatically fall into a deep state of flow because you're always searching for the best possible beta for only the next move and therefor you're pretty close to only thinking intuitivly in the present.
Compared to redpointing, I still have to learn a lot to properly stay in the moment and don't think about how a certain section felt last time or what is still in front of me but that's mostly because my body already knows what to do and my thoughts have got time to go crazy๐คฏ๐ฅ๐๐ญ!
In the last 12 months, the 19-year-old has onsighted 54 routes 8a and harder. In the 8a Top-50 onsight ranking game, she is #1 ahead of Solveig Korherr and Moritz Welt.
American Hastle: "No way, did this really happened!? Quite an untypical style for Oliana but a true king line in the middle of the cliff! For me about 8 boulders mostly with tensiony shoulder- & undercling moves separated by good rests all the way to a spicy slab at 50m where I totally forgot my beta... windy condis, lots of cheering from the crew & low expectations made it possible:) one of the closest battles I ever had!"
Picos Pardos: "When the rest day gets out of control and your other projects aren't free! Sending train at the cliff today with two other ascents at the same time; the Spanish guys were cheering soo loud that it even helped me passing the crux with thousands of drop knees! Perfect 5star bubble tufas in the upper part:)โ
Could you please tell us something about your onsight flow/strategy?
If there would be a strategy...;) honestly I mostly decide which route I'm gonna try in the last seconds before starting to climb which probably doesn't leave space for any expectations๐๐คทโโ๏ธ and what I love about onsighting is that you automatically fall into a deep state of flow because you're always searching for the best possible beta for only the next move and therefor you're pretty close to only thinking intuitivly in the present.
Compared to redpointing, I still have to learn a lot to properly stay in the moment and don't think about how a certain section felt last time or what is still in front of me but that's mostly because my body already knows what to do and my thoughts have got time to go crazy๐คฏ๐ฅ๐๐ญ!
In the last 12 months, the 19-year-old has onsighted 54 routes 8a and harder. In the 8a Top-50 onsight ranking game, she is #1 ahead of Solveig Korherr and Moritz Welt.
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