22 September 2023

Martin Tekles does Patanics (9a+)

Martin Tekles has repeated Jorge Diaz-Rulloโ€™s Patanics (9a+) in Rodellar. Recently, a hold in the crux has been partly broken on the 50m endurance route. โ€Such a long beast! I would go for 9a+/b in my opinion. On to the next.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started working on Patanics in May. After sending No pain no gain (9a+) in October last year it was kind of logical to try this route, as they both have the same middle part and crux. But the lower part (Pata Negra) and the upper part (Botanics) are different. In May I focused on the lower and upper part. I worked my way up by sending Pata negra (8c) and Pata-tral (8c+) two other variations. But conditions weren't good many wet holds or too hot. So I came back now and after some days with good tries, I could do it today. A huge mental battle to fight through this 60-meter-long beast. Conditions were amazing today so pretty happy that it turned out like this! You can use the picture, it's by me ๐Ÿ˜…

How did you manage to get the picture by yourself?
The photo was from last year. I climbed up and tied the GoPro with a piece of rope onto a quickdraw, looked for right position and then climbed down a few quickdraws. After a short rest, climbed the sequence and that how a got the photo ๐Ÿ˜…

What is next?
I have to search for new stuff, probably in Santa Linya or Margalef. Checking some routes for winter. Routes like Stoking the Fire (9b) or First Round First Minute (9b) look amazing ๐Ÿคฉ
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