Martin Stranik excells in Lead again

Martin Stráník, who got the silver in the Boulder World Championship in 2007, in his first-ever IFSC Boulder competition, has been #3 in the last two Lead World Cups. Interestingly, as a junior he was 13 times Top-2 in Lead in Euro Youth Cups but then after the silver, he changed to Boulder and overall in the WC his best result was #7 in 2016. Later his results dropped and in 2019, he made a shot for the Olympics but made only good results in Lead, three times being Top-10 in the WC.

How come you have focused only on Lead this year and how can you explain the great results?
I focused on lead, especially on climbing hard routes. I found modern bouldering is harder and harder to train for me, so I slowly switched to lead and found it very enjoyable. I trained 3xtimes a week on the lead wall and 2-3times on a wood board. A couple of times a month I go to Brno where we have a great facility, but it is 2,5hours to drive there for me. There are routes for Adam and routes are really hard, like Chamonix finals. The training plan is o lot influenced by my children. You know twins up to one year, you don't sleep well. Now they are moving fast so maybe I am fitter than ever, but I love to be a father. Corona came at the "right time" for me so I could spend more time with boys because of my home office. I am still in full time job as a metrologist. I am getting older, but I feel, my endurance is still in progress. I am working on it because the best are still far away, but I am coming closer, especially in hard bouldery routes.

It should be mentioned that the 31-year-old is #3 in the Bouldering ranking game including two 8C FA in 2021. In total, he has done 12 8C's and one 9a route.