18 April 2022
Flash record breaking day by Will Bosi; 8B+, 8A+ and 8A+
William Bosi has set a new "world record" when it comes to boulder flashes during one day, with an amazing triple; Fรฉnixovy Slzy (8A+), Charizard (8B+) and The Swirl King SS (8A+). Add to that the last one was a FA from a sit start (the stand is 8A) and also that he made a reversed link-up of the first two he flashed, creating the FA of Bulbasaur (8C), we are talking a bouldering day for the records book. Video of Martin Strรกnรญk doing the second ascent of the 8C.
How did you prepare for this trip?
I spent the last 3 months completely focused on getting as strong as possible by board climbing and doing campus boulders basically every session. So around 2-3 hours of board climbing followed by about 1-2 hours of campus boulders. Was my main session. Training mostly 2 days on 1 day off. I would mix in climbing at Raven tor some mornings as well to keep the rock try hard.
How did you prepare for this trip?
I spent the last 3 months completely focused on getting as strong as possible by board climbing and doing campus boulders basically every session. So around 2-3 hours of board climbing followed by about 1-2 hours of campus boulders. Was my main session. Training mostly 2 days on 1 day off. I would mix in climbing at Raven tor some mornings as well to keep the rock try hard.
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The final starts 19.30
Here are the finalists including the qualifying results in brackets, showing that actually most of the best from the qualification did not make it into the final. Only one male during the last 22 events have both won the semifinal and the final. Only one male out of the Top-22 in the WC 2014 are in โฆ
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Coxsey and Rubtsov win in Munich
Shauna Coxsey flashed all four problems and won in great style meanwhile Alexsey Rubtsov was the only male to get two tops. The amazing thing about Rubtsov, the World Champion from 2009, is his comments saying that he did not just minimal preparation the last six weeks.
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Stranik missed the semi isolation
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