Martin Keller, 45, does Gateway (8C+)

Martin Keller reports on Instagram that he has, after 150 sessions, done the FA of Gateway (8C+) in Cresciano, after the crux hold was broken. Originally, James Webb put it up in 2019, video. (c) Vladek Zumr

The 45-year-old is known for his projecting persistence, having completed Dreamtime (8C) in 2020, after trying it for 18 years, as well as Highlander (8B+) which took him 13 years. He also made the FA of Ninja Skills SDC 8C/+ after some 150 sessions.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the 150 sessions? From not being able to do the single hard crux-moves, to coming very close to send, to breaking (a few times) the crux-hold at the end, to not being sure if it still would go, to having to rebuild the landing after a tree took all the landing out, to fall on the last hard move a year before the send, to finally link all 20+ hard moves on the last night of the season before summer hit - and not slipping off the final mantle and slab at 2am on a solo afterworksession (after a full day of work).

I really loved my time up there as the boulder sits in a beautiful setting, offers an amazing line and some of the best climbing I can imagine with super powerful but also at the same time very techy moves - and a hard mantle to finish up (if you are not tall as jimmy!) - full package!!!

It was also great to test and fine tune some of my (new) training ideas and approaches - very happy on how well it worked - the increase in fitness over winter blew my mind!!! you know how it is with 40+ ... you always wonder when you can't progress anymore... turns out 46 is not the end at all - still progressing ;)

How was the 24 h timeline of he actual send day?
Getting up at 5.50 am. Jumping on a train and while on the train doing some client-feedback for my climbing- coaching (answering questions about the weekly training, tactical approaches for trips ). Then teaching 3 lectures (Business and economics) at technical university during the day. Back on a train in the late afternoon and some more client feedback. Arriving home i went for a 45min powernap. Cold shower. Food. Coffee. Left home around 8pm. Arrived at the boulder in Ticino around 11pm. Usual warmup ritual (mindset work included). Snacking (Choco-Croissant). 1am first try - heel slipped in the crux at the end. Long rest. Going for a walk. More snacking (Carrot-cake ;). Finally had the one perfect go with no mistake, still nearly slipped on the mantel - topped it out around 2am (2nd try of the night). No big screaming. Just very contempt. Long rest on top of the boulder. More Snacking. Back home around 7am I guess. Good thing work started at 1pm that day - not at 8am ;)