17 December 2023
Benjamin Blaser completes Dreamtime (8C)
Benjamin Blaser, who previously has sent a dozen 8B's, out of which the last in 2019, has done Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. (c) Silvia Flury
"My Dreamtime journey started on 22 December 2022. I did the stand start on my 5th go. It was a crazy feeling for me to do it so quickly. It was also my first session on the sit. In this session, I could to every move from the sit. No links in between but I was very happy about it. It took me about 3 sessions to get from the sit to the stand start. The sessions after were always the same. I could do the lower part quite easily but fell always on the big move from the stand start. On February 11th I could do the first time the big move coming from the ground. I fell off on the 3th last move. I was happy but at the same time very frustrated that I could not climb it....
From then it got worse. The mental battle was very hard for me. I knew I could do it but it was not happening. In April I stopped trying it because of the too warm conditions. I trained very hard 2 months before the Ticino season started. I was confident that I could do it this season. I had one session to just try the moves and get the feeling back. On my second session this season I had a good feeling. The stand start going down again very fast and easily. A friend of mine had the idea to do a video call so that they could join the session and give me support. Then it happened. On my sixth go from the ground in this session, I stuck the big move and stood on top of this amazing boulder. I could not stop my feelings and began to cry after the send. I was so happy that I just climbed my Lifetime Goal!"
How come you have not sent anything at your max limit the last four years?
I was not really on projecting something hard. I just wanted to climb as much as I could in the range that I could climb it within one or two days.
"My Dreamtime journey started on 22 December 2022. I did the stand start on my 5th go. It was a crazy feeling for me to do it so quickly. It was also my first session on the sit. In this session, I could to every move from the sit. No links in between but I was very happy about it. It took me about 3 sessions to get from the sit to the stand start. The sessions after were always the same. I could do the lower part quite easily but fell always on the big move from the stand start. On February 11th I could do the first time the big move coming from the ground. I fell off on the 3th last move. I was happy but at the same time very frustrated that I could not climb it....
From then it got worse. The mental battle was very hard for me. I knew I could do it but it was not happening. In April I stopped trying it because of the too warm conditions. I trained very hard 2 months before the Ticino season started. I was confident that I could do it this season. I had one session to just try the moves and get the feeling back. On my second session this season I had a good feeling. The stand start going down again very fast and easily. A friend of mine had the idea to do a video call so that they could join the session and give me support. Then it happened. On my sixth go from the ground in this session, I stuck the big move and stood on top of this amazing boulder. I could not stop my feelings and began to cry after the send. I was so happy that I just climbed my Lifetime Goal!"
How come you have not sent anything at your max limit the last four years?
I was not really on projecting something hard. I just wanted to climb as much as I could in the range that I could climb it within one or two days.
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