Marroncita 8b OS and Fish Eye 8c 2nd go by Martina Demmel (19)

Martina Demmel continues her rampage in Oliana by doing Fish Eye 8c and El Gran Blau 8b+/c on her second go. The 19-year-old also onsighted her second 8b in a week, Marroncita. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

”Another Oliana gem went down way quicker than expected without any warmup! Luckily the wind got stronger and the grip better the higher I got:) somehow managed to read all those tricky bouldery sequences just perfect that I was literally cruising up the climb with the pump kicking in while lowering down;) deserves more than 5 stars!

In the Top-10 onsight game, the 19-year-old is #6 but counting Top-50 onsights last year, she is a surperior #1.

Please say something about your onsight strategy and tricks having the pump under control?
I don't know a trick which works for everybody but for me it's climbing relativly slow and always trying to be relaxed in the whole body especially the face but this doesn't always works while doing a hard move but at least when arriving at the next hold, I try to immediately relax again. The mind plays a big role in regulating the pump as well😉. But mostly climbing on long endurancy routes for weeks is probably the best trick😜🔥