Vertical-Life
Marroncita 8b OS and Fish Eye 8c 2nd go by Martina Demmel (19)
”Another Oliana gem went down way quicker than expected without any warmup! Luckily the wind got stronger and the grip better the higher I got:) somehow managed to read all those tricky bouldery sequences just perfect that I was literally cruising up the climb with the pump kicking in while lowering down;) deserves more than 5 stars!
In the Top-10 onsight game, the 19-year-old is #6 but counting Top-50 onsights last year, she is a surperior #1.
Please say something about your onsight strategy and tricks having the pump under control?
I don't know a trick which works for everybody but for me it's climbing relativly slow and always trying to be relaxed in the whole body especially the face but this doesn't always works while doing a hard move but at least when arriving at the next hold, I try to immediately relax again. The mind plays a big role in regulating the pump as well😉. But mostly climbing on long endurancy routes for weeks is probably the best trick😜🔥
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling i…
Martina Demmel interview
Martina Demmel onsighted Pata pa mi 8b (a+) in 2019 after having climbed for less than three years. The next year she made it to the semifinal in her debut Worl…
Martina Demmel does Least Resistance (8c) 2nd go
Martina Demmel has had two great days in Schleier Wasserfall, sending two hard classical routes, out of which, Least Resistance (8c), second go. "Perfect dry g…
Heim nach Afrika 9a by Martina Demmel
Martina Demmel, who started climbing only in 2017, has done Heim nach Afrika (9a) in Kochel. It is a link-up that first Pirmin Bertle reported the FA, calling i…
Martina Demmel interview
Martina Demmel onsighted Pata pa mi 8b (a+) in 2019 after having climbed for less than three years. The next year she made it to the semifinal in her debut Worl…
Martina Demmel does Least Resistance (8c) 2nd go
Martina Demmel has had two great days in Schleier Wasserfall, sending two hard classical routes, out of which, Least Resistance (8c), second go. "Perfect dry g…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…