
30 January 2024
Manon Hily does L'ideal Chimerique (8c+) and flashes an 8b
Manon HILY has redpointed
L'idรฉal chimรฉrique (8c+) and flashed La barre ร un million d'annรฉe (8b) in St Lรฉger. In total, she has now done 15 routes 8c or 8c+, out of which four this winter.
โI spent five days in the end on L'ideal. This is a long route with a lot of ยซ not natural ยป holds but very cool to train because there are two parts. In the first part, all the moves are powerful and long on good holds. You have to be fast and after that, you have a good rest with a small jug. Then you have a pumpy section before the crux with eight moves and then there is a very hard shoulder move. I took a little crimp to be closer and cross instead of doing the shoulder movement. I think this is the perfect beta for small people. You can fall so many times to the top!โ
The french climber has been an active IFSC competition climber since 2009, winning nine youth medals. In 2022, she earned her first senior podium with a bronze at the European Lead Championship. Last year, the 29-year-old was #3 in the Briancon World Cup and now her goal is to qualify for the Olympics and later the European Championship. After this, her focus will be back on outdoor climbing.
โI spent five days in the end on L'ideal. This is a long route with a lot of ยซ not natural ยป holds but very cool to train because there are two parts. In the first part, all the moves are powerful and long on good holds. You have to be fast and after that, you have a good rest with a small jug. Then you have a pumpy section before the crux with eight moves and then there is a very hard shoulder move. I took a little crimp to be closer and cross instead of doing the shoulder movement. I think this is the perfect beta for small people. You can fall so many times to the top!โ
The french climber has been an active IFSC competition climber since 2009, winning nine youth medals. In 2022, she earned her first senior podium with a bronze at the European Lead Championship. Last year, the 29-year-old was #3 in the Briancon World Cup and now her goal is to qualify for the Olympics and later the European Championship. After this, her focus will be back on outdoor climbing.
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