Maël Musson ticks Redoublement d'effort (9a)

Maël Musson, who sent his first 9a in 2023 at age 17, has done Redoublement d'effort (9a) in Roche de rame.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Redoublement was first climbed by my friend Diego Fourbet a few years ago. The route is divided into two difficult sections: the first, very intense, involves climbing the crux of "La Proue Débridée", an 8c/+, up to a moderate rest. Then comes a second section of about ten meters, which corresponds to the hardest part of "Les Trois Points", another 8c/+. While this final section doesn’t seem too challenging when climbed on its own, it quickly becomes brutal once fatigue sets in. The key to the route lies in managing effort: you have to get through the first section while conserving as much energy as possible.

I started trying this route last year after sending "Les Trois Points". Very quickly, I fell on the final moves, which made me think I could complete it within a few sessions. However, from that point on, I kept repeating the same attempts without making any real progress. The route became a mental battle. I spent the entire winter working on it, but to no avail. After several months without trying it, I seriously got back to it in 2025. Progress came quickly, and I found myself falling multiple times on the last move. With ten free days ahead, it was the perfect opportunity to go for the send. And on the second day, my nemesis finally gave in!