Gianluca Vighetti climbs The famous gem (9a)

Gianluca Vighetti, who last year sent two 9a+’ at age 16, has done The famous gem (9a) in La Saume. Last year the Italian won the Euro youth cup overall. (c) Nicolò Vece

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I wanted to spend a weekend climbing on rock after the end of the Italian competitions, but I still wanted to try a "comp-style" route, or at least something that could help me train a lot. The Famous Gem was perfect for my goal: a bouldery, crimpy, and overhanging line without many kneebars. On the first day, I never managed to get past the first crux, which is shared with the 8c section, and I started doubting myself and my fitness. The next day, I was having the exact same issue, but once I climbed past the crux, everything went perfectly, and I sent this beautiful line.

What are your summer plans?
My summer plan is to focus on the international competions, the European youth cups, European senior cups and the World youth championship in Arco. I'm also really excited for the rock season in Autumn! I have some really cool lines in my mind.

How come you have not done any IFSC comps in 2026?
Unfortunately I had a shoulder injury that kept me off the wall for some time at the beginning of the season and I wasn't able to compete in the first wc selection and in the other one I wasn't fully recovered. But it isn't a problem, next year I'm going to give my best for sure.