Lukas Mokrolusky, 17, ticks Action Directe (9a)

Lukas Mokrolusky, who was #8 in the Euro Boulder Cup four weeks ago, has completed Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. This was the 34th ascent of the Wolfgang Gullich’ classic from 1991, widely considered as the first 9a in the world. (c) Vojtěch Růta

Can you tell us more about your journey doing AD?
The journey started when I climbed my first 8a, which was right next to AD. After that climb, I promised myself that AD would be my first 9a, and I kept my promise. It took me 2 years and so many attempts to climb it. The first time I tried AD was in the summer of 2022. I just tried the moves; I didn’t even make the first jump and went down from the middle of the route because I was too weak.

My first serious attempts came in the spring of 2023 when I started focusing on this route with Vojtěch Trojan. We went to Frankenjura a couple of times together to try AD, and we were super close. He did it after some tries, but I was falling on that last pogo jump from a small crimp to another crimp. This move took me almost 2 years until I finally stuck it and completed the route. I was so happy to have finally fulfilled my childhood dream, kept my promise, and joined the 9a club with this absolute masterpiece. :)

What is next?
I don’t know yet, but I want to try some 9a+ in Frankenjura and also some 8B+ boulders but now I need to focus on comp climbing as well :)

What are your competition goals?
My goal is YWCH in Helsinki, where I want to make podium and make some semis on WC’s or final. I want my goals to be realistic so I would be happy with the semi :)