4 November 2023
Stefano Ghisolfi sends Action Directe (9a)
Stefano Ghisolfi has, on his way back from Flatanger, made a quick stop in Frankenjura and sent
Action Directe (9a). (c) Sara Grippo
โI was quite close to do it already in 2017 but I didn't come back before this trip. I almost did it on the second day with a new heel beta, that is a bit easier but more low percentage. So in the third day of this trip I went with the regular beta and did it.โ
Can you describe the new heal beta? Did you find it yourself?
Yes. It is by the last quickdraw, the one that is skipped. I use a right heel from a left undercling to go right hand to a two finger pocket. As single move it's easier because I can skip two hard moves but it's sketchy and you can easily slip.
What are your upcoming plans?
I have few projects in Arco for this winter and then I'll start training for the Olympic qualification series.
โI was quite close to do it already in 2017 but I didn't come back before this trip. I almost did it on the second day with a new heel beta, that is a bit easier but more low percentage. So in the third day of this trip I went with the regular beta and did it.โ
Can you describe the new heal beta? Did you find it yourself?
Yes. It is by the last quickdraw, the one that is skipped. I use a right heel from a left undercling to go right hand to a two finger pocket. As single move it's easier because I can skip two hard moves but it's sketchy and you can easily slip.
What are your upcoming plans?
I have few projects in Arco for this winter and then I'll start training for the Olympic qualification series.
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