3 April 2023
Lucien Martinez repeats, Playboy Rode sans Complexe 9a (+)
Lucien Martinez has made the first repeat of Seb Bouin's Le playboy rรดde sans complexe (9a+) in Lourmarin. Fanatic has made an interview with Lucien, where he among other things say.
โTwo reasons motivated me to try: first, itโs a king line. The route is 55 meters long, and the higher you climb, the more itโs overhanging, which gives an incredible wall, and the moves are crazy, with a big dyno in the middle. The second reason is to repeat Sebโs route. The problem with Sebโs routes is, in addition to the difficulty, they are long, overhanging, demanding,โฆwhich means that to repeat them you need like a kind of special devotion.โ
โTwo reasons motivated me to try: first, itโs a king line. The route is 55 meters long, and the higher you climb, the more itโs overhanging, which gives an incredible wall, and the moves are crazy, with a big dyno in the middle. The second reason is to repeat Sebโs route. The problem with Sebโs routes is, in addition to the difficulty, they are long, overhanging, demanding,โฆwhich means that to repeat them you need like a kind of special devotion.โ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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Sans Complexe 9a FA by Erwan Legrand, 14
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Can you tell us more about the ascent? It was a bโฆ
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25 February 2026
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Antoine Maire, who last year sent his first six 9aโs, has started out 2026 by sending Le playboy rรดde sans complexe (9a+) and Beginning of the strongness (9a) โฆ
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Erwan Legrand, son of Francois, one of the very best competition climbers in history, has made the FA of the 45 meter long Sans complexe (9a) in Lourmarin. Addโฆ
2 December 2025
Lucy Mitchell does Josรฉ pine le gardien dans la cave (8c+)
Lucy Mitchell, with five 8cโs under her belt, has sent Josรฉ pine le gardien dans la cave (8c+) in Lourmarin.
Can you tell us more about the ascent? It was a bโฆ
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Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ