Lorenzo Bogliacino ticks Lapsus (9a+)

Lorenzo Bogliacino, fresh from a trip to Rodellar, where he did four 9a’s and a 9a+, has done Lapsus (9a+) in Andonno. ”Three years later I would have become a firefighter. The knees — you’ve got to know how to use them too!”

Why do you think you are in the best shape of your life?
Last year, after breaking a pulley, I started rehabilitation with my physiotherapist, Filippo Oliva, and gradually worked my way back to full training. For four or five months, I dedicated myself entirely to training, setting aside rock climbing and trying to save as many vacation days as possible for the summer season.

In April, I got back on rock and began to put all the training to work. Starting in June, I took my vacations in stages in Rodellar and climbed in the Gorges du Loup in the others days! This kind of powerful, physical climbing always gets me in great shape, but this year I also decided to include strength training sessions to keep my body stimulated while working on such long routes.

I believe motivation and consistency are always the main keys. In any case, I never would have expected such a season, nor to reach such good shape for my last October trip to Rodellar! Once I got home, I was immediately curious to go back to Andonno — and in just three days, I managed to finish what I had left unfinished three years ago, after two long months of attempts!