Lapsus 9a+ (b) by Giorgio Tomatis (19)

24 November 2022

Giorgio Tomatis has done Lapsus 9a+ (b) in Andonno, which is a link-up of three routes he has done before. Stefano Ghisolfi made the FA in 2015 as the first 9b in Italy but later he and the three repeaters (Ondra, Bombardi using one knee pad, and Sigriest) have edited their opinion calling it a hard 9a+. Tomatis, who previously has done five 9a's, thinks it merits 9b. He started working on it seriously at the end of October. "I wanted to do it without kneepads because Stefano's FA was done without kneepads and without, it's 9b."

Can you give us the lowdown on Lapsus?
It is a truly magical route. The connection of all the hardest routes of the most famous wall of Andonno. The process was really incredible and very stimulating. It was a very fun route to try for me because every time I improved something or I could make one extra move.

The 19-year-old is also a successful competition climber having made the podium in Euro Youth Cups eight times, including winning one event in 2021. Already at age 14, he did Noia (8c+) which shares the start of Lapsus. (c) Carlo Penna
3  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

5 May 2022

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. Af…

43
Siegrist comments - Harder grades in the USA?

5 February 2022

Siegrist comments - Harder grades in the USA?

Alexej Pinchuk has presented statistics of all 9a+ to 9c ascents. A total of 26 climbers from the US have done a 9a+, which can be compared with 21 from Spain a…

34
Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

31

RELATED

Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

15 November 2022

Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Michele Reusa has done Noia (8c+) in Andonno. "Noia is the first 8c+ in Italy, freed by Severino Scassa in 1993. The route is made up of the first part of an 8b…

1
Noia 8c+ by Gianluca Vighetti (14)

24 November 2022

Noia 8c+ by Gianluca Vighetti (14)

Gianluca Vighetti, who did his first 9a at age 12, has done Noia (8c+) in Andonno. In total, the 14-year-old has now done five routes 8c+ and harder. (c) Diego…

1
Lapsus 9b (a+) by Jonathan Siegrist

26 October 2021

Lapsus 9b (a+) by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus in Andonno. In total, Jonathan has now done 60+ routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him #6 on that list…

2