16 April 2024

Lorenzo Bogliacino FA’s Trainspotting (9a+)

Lorenzo Bogliacino, who has previously climbed five 9a’s and Naturalmente (9a+), has made the FA of Trainspotting (9a+) in La Stazione. (c) Isabella Sigaudo

Can you tell us more about this FA?
Last fall, after doing the FA of "Prima Classe," I took a few turns on a pitch bolted by Carlo. The line climbs very directly up the main overhang of La Stazione and, while offering slightly lower quality rock than Prima Classe, provides much more physicality. I quickly realized that I had to approach the route as a project at my limit and after about fifteen sessions I manage to get close to free it while realizing that I still lack something to be able to complete the FA; the season ends with the arrival of winter temperatures and the bill remains outstanding.

All winter long I had this line in mind, convinced that it would take very little to finish what I had started but the reality is that it took another 7-8 sessions, often looking for conditions with winter weather and the approach completely snowed in.

I never thought I would find a virgin crag with such routes at my limit where I could start my bolting experience, yet it happened and I propose the grade of 9a+. Trainspotting is my best performance and deserves a grade that is important to me. Thanks to all the bolters whose work allowed me to repeat so many routes before dedicating myself to FAs, a step I think is essential for any climber beyond the satisfaction of making a first ascent.

How many routes have you bolted?
About ten routes counting those in an other place I recently found. I'm definitely novice but I'm looking for quality and difficulty rather than quantity.
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