18 March 2022

L’insoutenable légèreté de l'être 8B flash by Tristan Chen

Tristan Chen, who last week did in just one session, has flashed in Fontainebleau. The beta he got from having watched several videos.

The climb is totally bodacious, I tried to climb it the day before but it was still wet after a rainstorm so I could only feel the grips and not give rips (tires). Luckily this one also doesn’t require too much micro beta so there are fewer opportunities to mess up the sequence through the bottom. And then I just held to dream and pulled through the mantle.”

Having done Dreamtime last month. How can you explain being in your best shape ever?
I’ve dedicated my entire being to this sport for the last fifteen years, spending all of my free time engrossed in every possible microcosm it has to offer. And I’m glad to see that it’s finally paying some dividends. I also quit my job recently so I’m finally able to travel a bit.

Are you following any specific training regime?
I don’t like to climb in gyms right now since it eats too much precious skin, but I do some daily calisthenics around the house (100 push ups, 100 pulls ups, 100 sit ups).

How long will you stay in Font and when do you plan to start working?Today is my last day in Europe, but I plan on road tripping around the US a bit when I get back (fingers crossed Hueco is cold enough on Monday to finish off Desperanza). And I’ll start working again whenever I run out of money, so in about six-nine months.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FA’s Café Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, he’s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now he’s ad…
Sean Bailey FA’s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. ” After four total years and three seasons of climbing,…
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Café Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Café Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessio…
Related
Max Bertone has done Saruman du bas (8B) in Fontainebleau. "Super classic of the forest. I am so happy to top this one ! A perfect try I think because I was not so easy and holds didn't stick so much today."
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done four 9a's but just one 8B+ before arriving to Fontainebleau, has done No Kpote Only 8C (+). It was put up by Charles Albert, barefoot, as a 9A. Later it has been repeated twice and 8C+/9A as well as 8C/+ have been suggested. "A great climb and a supe…
Pura Vida 8A+ and Partage 8A+ by Lilli Kiesgen
Lilli Kiesgen has done Pura Vida (8A+) in Magic Wood and in Fontainebleau. The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship…