L’insoutenable légèreté de l'être 8B flash by Tristan Chen

18 March 2022

Tristan Chen, who last week did in just one session, has flashed in Fontainebleau. The beta he got from having watched several videos.

The climb is totally bodacious, I tried to climb it the day before but it was still wet after a rainstorm so I could only feel the grips and not give rips (tires). Luckily this one also doesn’t require too much micro beta so there are fewer opportunities to mess up the sequence through the bottom. And then I just held to dream and pulled through the mantle.”

Having done Dreamtime last month. How can you explain being in your best shape ever?
I’ve dedicated my entire being to this sport for the last fifteen years, spending all of my free time engrossed in every possible microcosm it has to offer. And I’m glad to see that it’s finally paying some dividends. I also quit my job recently so I’m finally able to travel a bit.

Are you following any specific training regime?
I don’t like to climb in gyms right now since it eats too much precious skin, but I do some daily calisthenics around the house (100 push ups, 100 pulls ups, 100 sit ups).

How long will you stay in Font and when do you plan to start working?Today is my last day in Europe, but I plan on road tripping around the US a bit when I get back (fingers crossed Hueco is cold enough on Monday to finish off Desperanza). And I’ll start working again whenever I run out of money, so in about six-nine months.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A


20 September 2023

Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…


21 January 2023

Is onsight climbing on life support?

During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…


17 March 2022

Soudain Seul 9A by Camille Coudert

Camille Coudert sent Soudain seul (9A) in Fontainebleau, one month ago, after 80+ sessions during two years. So did you enjoy some nice rest days once you had sent it and what have you been up to the last month?I went climbing the next day with friends. I have tried some less hard 8C boulders that I…

3 May 2022

No Kpote Only 8C (+) by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done four 9a's but just one 8B+ before arriving to Fontainebleau, has done No Kpote Only 8C (+). It was put up by Charles Albert, barefoot, as a 9A. Later it has been repeated twice and 8C+/9A as well as 8C/+ have been suggested. "A great climb and a supe…

The Big Island 8C by Thijs van Delden

10 February 2023

The Big Island 8C by Thijs van Delden

Thijs van Delden reports on Insta that he has done The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau, projecting it for a dozen or so sessions. Can you tell us more about …