Leo Bøe completes Estado Critico (9a)
"In 2019 I saw my friend, Lucas Marques, climb Estado Critico as his first 9a. He motivated me to try the moves, but at that time they felt hard and impossible to link. I’ve wanted to revisit the route through the years to check in on my progress and now I finally had the chance. This time, the moves felt far within reach and already on day two I was falling at the end. The final move was the redpoint crux for me and I fell there in the following sessions. The ending is super techy and you’re going from thumb press to thumb press while sitting on a heel. It was incredibly rewarding to finally latch the final pocket/jug and send the route that gave me so much trouble five years ago! Perhaps soft for the grade, but harder than all the 8c+’s I’ve done."
How long have you stayed in the area and what is next on your agenda?
Next, I will sample the moves in La Rambla. My dream for this year is to find a 9a+ project that gets me psyched to fight hard. I have been here for two months and I’ll be staying 2-3 months longer in Spain! Let’s see what comes next!
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Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)
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Gergő Vályi ticks Estado Critico (9a)
Gergő Vályi jumps two grades by doing Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 19-year-old Hungarian has won six European Youth Cups and has previously sent six 8c’s…
Eliáš Kysela, 17, does Estado Critico (9a)
Eliáš Kysela, who last month did his first 9a, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. Last summer, the 17-year-old did his first 8c, and now 16 months later h…
Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)
Darius Rapa, who last year did his first 9a and won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. "Sooo damn happy to clip the chain on this 35 m…
Gergő Vályi ticks Estado Critico (9a)
Gergő Vályi jumps two grades by doing Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 19-year-old Hungarian has won six European Youth Cups and has previously sent six 8c’s…
Eliáš Kysela, 17, does Estado Critico (9a)
Eliáš Kysela, who last month did his first 9a, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. Last summer, the 17-year-old did his first 8c, and now 16 months later h…
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