
11 November 2023
Laura Rogora ticks Lapsus (9a+)
Laura Rogora, who two weeks ago was #3 in the Olympic qualifier, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus (9a+) in Andonno. Previously, the 22-year-old has done more than 20 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is almost twice as many as the runner-up, Anak Verhoeven. (c) Fabio Fin
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I came to Andonno on Wednesday. On the first day, I managed to climb the single moves, but it was a bit wet. In the following days, it rained and it was cold, so I didn't climb much, I climbed Noia, and tried the upper part a bit more. Then on Sunday, everything was dry. I made my first attempts and fell at the final boulder, but I was tired from the previous attempt and couldn't take advantage of the rest before the crux, so I knew I could do it. Today the conditions were perfect, and I felt good. On the first try of the day, I reached the chain.
Can you tell us about your training and your next goal?
I will train for the qualification for Paris. I train 6 days per week one or two sessions per day doing climbing or weight lifting.
Almost no rock climbing during the training period. After season I have two weeks off from training. My trainer is Vincenzo de luca.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I came to Andonno on Wednesday. On the first day, I managed to climb the single moves, but it was a bit wet. In the following days, it rained and it was cold, so I didn't climb much, I climbed Noia, and tried the upper part a bit more. Then on Sunday, everything was dry. I made my first attempts and fell at the final boulder, but I was tired from the previous attempt and couldn't take advantage of the rest before the crux, so I knew I could do it. Today the conditions were perfect, and I felt good. On the first try of the day, I reached the chain.
Can you tell us about your training and your next goal?
I will train for the qualification for Paris. I train 6 days per week one or two sessions per day doing climbing or weight lifting.
Almost no rock climbing during the training period. After season I have two weeks off from training. My trainer is Vincenzo de luca.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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