13 February 2017

La Reina Mora 9a (8c+) by David Firnenburg

David Firnenberg, who just did his first 9a+, La Rambla in Siurana, finished the trip off by sending also La Reina Mora 9a (8c+). "It might be one of the most beautiful climbs in whole Catalonia." (c) Jon Cardwell David was #3 in the Combined World Championship and he is trying to make it to Tokyo 2020. What is your opinion about the Olympic format? In my opinion the Olympic Games offer a chance to professionalize our sport. Therewith connects the hope that more climbers and also better than before can live from climbing. Though, this process must be fulfilled in a responsible manner. The experience from other sports show that the more money is involved the more questionable and even unfair practices are being made and the original idea is alienated. Therefore, we must observe the effects and also side effects related to the Olympic Games critically. This includes the format which is shaped by the IOC and IFSC. I suppose that factors such as TV-suitability, dramaturgy and successive selection are consulted as decisive. Probably it wonโ€™t be a format, like in the actual overall-ranking of the World Championships or proposed by 8a.nu, where the athletes collect points and a calculated overall-title is certain in the end but rather a format which generates a clear winner for the layperson to be identified on the last day of the games. The option of a duel format is already part of speed climbing and can be nicely accommodated here. The essentials of bouldering and lead climbing are different from time comparison in the first place and should get their chance to be expressed, too. I appreciate that 8a.nu gives the athletes a platform to proclaim their thoughts and I hope that this contributes to a better result for everyone finally.
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