Kim Marschner - An upcoming star
What have you been up to lately and what are your plans and ambition for 2022?
Lately, I’ve been a lot in Chironico trying a new crimpy boulder there which will be around 8C I guess. My goal is to climb that but I just have time as long as it is really cold. This year I‘ve been there already twice. I would love to go there more often. It‘s 4,5 h dive. Also, I want to qualify for the World Cup this season as well as the European Championship in Munich. Therefore we have some comp simulations in the next months and a selection competition.
Could you please describe how and where you train to fulfil your goals?
At Active Garden. It’s my parents' gym. I train a lot at the moment to get there. Especially doing comp style boulders in the gym and a lot at the spray wall. After all the time on rocks, it’s kind of hard to get back into comp mode but I’m really motivated and psyched for the comp season to start. I train 6 days a week and on three days I train twice a day. Normally I start with easy comp boulders to warm up. It makes me awake because you need to have a good focus. After that I try the harder ones and sometimes only single moves but I do them more than one time to really get them dialled in. After that I go to the spray wall and do some hard boulders there until I have no more power.
In the second session, I do more functional training like rings and weighted pullups and stuff like that. Also sometimes I do campusboard training. But mostly bouldering. Once a week I also try to do a little power endurance session. One of our national coaches writes me a plan but I don’t train with a trainer. I train a lot with Max Kleesattel and Stefan Schmieg. Also members of the national team.
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Crystal Ship 8C by Kim Marschner and Florian Wientjes
Kim Marschner and Florian Wientjes have done Crystal Ship (8C) in Cresciano in just four respectively five sessions each. Kim who took the picture of Flo shares…
Shawn Raboutou doing the FA of Story of 3 Worlds 8C+
In 2005, David Graham made the FA of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. The name reflected the new inflated grades of that time and Dave made a statement that pretty much stopped the inflation and later many hard-core boulders were actually downgraded to fit the "new 8C standard". In the video…
Yannick Flohé does the FA of Return of the Dreamtime 8C+
Two weeks ago, Yannick Flohé made the FA of Return of the Dreamtime (8C+) in Cresciano. "Start like Dreamtime but go right after the Dyno and finish on Somnolence (8B)." This has been an open project for many years and links 8B/+ into 8B.
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…