Simone Tentori does two 8C’s

Simone Tentori has had his best week ever sending two 8C’s in Cresciano; The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) and Crystal Ship (8C). Previously the 26-year-old has done five 8C’s since 2021.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
Crystal ship was definitely the main goal. Pretty easy intro and then basically 2 move crux that make the problem. On my first session I flashed the last move to the juggy-lip but I was stuck on the high foot lock off to get the slopy sidepull for two more sessions. The tiny holds are sharp and allowed me less than 10 tries each session. On my 4th session I finally realized that was better for me to commit to the low foot beta that make the reach to the sidepull way easier but harder to set up the last move with the crux probably on a foot move😂. 5th session I was abale to send with the support of my girlfriend who was there filming, spotting and moving the light for me (special thanks!)

Story was a completely different story. After my ascent of the dagger in 2017 I came back there multiple times and once a year I found myself practicing the moves again with friends and checking the low start for curiosity, but never with a strong intent to make it a real project. This year was not different, I was there playing on the moves with friends but this time I felt so strong on the moves straight away. After 30 min I gave a try from the start and I fell in the middle of the Dagger still with no clear beta and clumsy climbing. So I decided it was time to close this chapter and 2 more sessions I was on top.

How can you explain your peak performance?
In the last few years I focus on quality rather than quantity, and I choose to try a lot of different hard boulders around my limit. That meant fewer ticks on the list but more experience on different difficult moves. Combined with structured training, it was the key!

Can you give us some details about your structured training?
Fundamental weightlifting exercises, finger board, legs training, board sessions, campus climbing. With on-the-wall training 70 to 90% of my volume depends on the phase.

I'm a professional climbing coach (@compass_coaching_climbing) and I dedicated a lot of time studying training but also training myself too. My training varies a lot through the year and the rock climbing phase. However, I can say that I'll keep things simple and try to be consistent, and a training plan definitely helps with that!