
16 May 2023
Jonathan Siegrist onsights and FA flashes 8b+'
Jonathan Siegrist has onsighted Herbivore Dyno-soar (8b+) in Red Rock (NV) and flashed, as well as doing the FA of, Alien vs Predator (8b+) in La Madres. (c) Sanni Honnold
Can you tell us more about the onsight?
Honestly, I didnโt even think to try and onsight. I went to support my wife on her project at this great little cliff in Red Rock. Here I had two routes left, both were notoriously morpho so I was quite intimidated. I tried the first one Hank's Route (8a) and fell pretty low. Next, I decided to try Herbivore Dynosaur with zero intention of an onsight, I didnโt even look above an obvious, almost body length dyno right at the first bolt. This kind of thing is so far outside of my wheelhouse and I expected to fall a million times there and lower to the ground! It felt so cool and deeply gratifying to stick the move.. but then the fight was on to finish. Several more huge moves including another dyno guard the top. Itโs definitely not the hardest 8b+ (even 8b) but the style is so far from a strength of mine that it made it a really exciting send for me.
Who gave the beta for the FA flash?
Alex Honnold and my friend Tyler Wilcutt had been trying it for a couple weeks so they had some nice beta, and had it cleaned up really well. It was an old forgotten project. Alex and I climb together a lot. So he knows how to give me good beta. He knows when I likely wonโt be able to reach something and tells me some potential other options. And he knows that I will probably skip most knee bars. Itโs so important to have beta from a solid climbing partner - so they know your size and style really well.
Can you tell us more about the onsight?
Honestly, I didnโt even think to try and onsight. I went to support my wife on her project at this great little cliff in Red Rock. Here I had two routes left, both were notoriously morpho so I was quite intimidated. I tried the first one Hank's Route (8a) and fell pretty low. Next, I decided to try Herbivore Dynosaur with zero intention of an onsight, I didnโt even look above an obvious, almost body length dyno right at the first bolt. This kind of thing is so far outside of my wheelhouse and I expected to fall a million times there and lower to the ground! It felt so cool and deeply gratifying to stick the move.. but then the fight was on to finish. Several more huge moves including another dyno guard the top. Itโs definitely not the hardest 8b+ (even 8b) but the style is so far from a strength of mine that it made it a really exciting send for me.
Who gave the beta for the FA flash?
Alex Honnold and my friend Tyler Wilcutt had been trying it for a couple weeks so they had some nice beta, and had it cleaned up really well. It was an old forgotten project. Alex and I climb together a lot. So he knows how to give me good beta. He knows when I likely wonโt be able to reach something and tells me some potential other options. And he knows that I will probably skip most knee bars. Itโs so important to have beta from a solid climbing partner - so they know your size and style really well.
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