30 November 2024

Chaehyeon Seo onsights Fish Eye (8c) and does 9a

Chaehyeon Seo, who was #6 in the Paris Olympics, has onsighted Fish eye (8c) in Oliana and redpointed Open Your Mind Direct (9a) in Santa Linya.

Seo made her first VL/8a headlines at just 11 years old by onsighting an 8a. At 14, she climbed her first 8c+ and in 2022, she added two impressive achievements to her record: she onsighted L'antagonista (8c) and sent La Rambla (9a+). Her competition track record is equally impressive. In 2019 she won the Lead World Cup after having won four straight events at age 15. Two years later she became the World Champion.

Can you tell us more about the trip and those two ascents?
We planned to stay in Santa Linya for a month but the weather and the rock conditions were too bad so we tried to climb at Oliana. It was not the best because many climbing days were in fog.

While in Santa Linya, I tried Open your mind because it's very famous route and I need to adapt for the rocks. Rock was slippery, but before it I climbed on wet rocks so it felt quite ok, so I could send it.

In Oliana I tried Papichulo (9a+) for my project. First few days I was checking the moves and making the moves perfectly and the weather was also good. But the last three days were too humid and rainy, so I felt ready but rocks were too bad. As I waiting for the rocks get dry I just tried Fish Eye for fun. The lower part went smoothly, and in sudden I was at the top part crux. I was focusing so much. Last crux was at the last 3 meters, so I fought there about 10 min before I could send it.
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